Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:33:24 -0400
Reply-To: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: westy interior install, was Re: westy kitchen mod question
In-Reply-To: <CE54B269-B57A-4CDA-9CFB-95A4546CE57D@shaw.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
You maintain most of your secret storage space even after cutting down the
rear cabinet.
I know that you could make a fascia for the curve in order to add the top
cabinet, but how would you secure it if you're not adding a poptop? The
bolts come from above.
I would say if you plan to or at least think about going to the electric
fridge, and are doing this to a syncro that's worth saving.....
do yourself a favor and don't put in the dometic right away. Just put the
door on and use it for storage untill you think it over and save up the
money for the electric. It's not worth putting a hole in the side of a
pretty syncro just for something you're going to consider upgrading. In the
end, the electric fridge's cost thoroughly offset the cost of having that
hole later filled and the car repainted.
I remember seeing the spot marked on the soundproofing stuff, but don't
believe the nuts were there (and know the hole wasn't).
I need to post some updated pictures of how I work the electricity.
I am VERY happy with my stainless steel accents and get a ton of complements
on their relative good looks. I can't suggest them enough.
Anyway, here is a bit of a "build thread".
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2004304&id=1457880199&l=14b72ecf6b
No 18 year old should ever be expected to reduce a bus to scrap in less than
2 weeks. But some of us can : )
-Craig
'85GL turned WESTY
BOSTIG in the back
On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 8:55 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> see my responses in body...
>
> On 10-Jun-10, at 3:54 PM, craig cowan wrote:
>
> Keep in mind the differences between a passanger van and a westfalia in
>> terms of the roof. The westfalia roof is flat and sits about an inch lower
>> in the center, while a passanger van roof is curved. (And a sunroof van
>> roof
>> is 1.1'' lower throughout on the interior!).
>> As such, the overhead cabinet designed for the flat roof of the westfalia
>> does not fit on the curved roof of the passanger van. The rear corner
>> cabinet (WARDROBE) is also too tall, specifically on the corner along the
>> outside edge and will need to be cut down.
>>
>
>
> yes, need a curved filler piece for overhead cabinet. Westfalia did make
> such a cabinet for the "Mosaik" kit.
>
> Damn yes, the wardrobe also is cut for the flat roof. When cut down I guess
> I lose that "secret" storage on top of wardrobe.
>
>
>
> The rear seatbelts are held in by finely threaded and wildly large machine
>> screws, which often require strange amounts of force even if not coroded
>> or
>> cross threaded....
>>
>
>
>
> seatbelts no prob, all in hand.
>
>
>
> The westfalia bed however will require some additional holes that go over
>> the flat section of the rear but infront of the engine bay. Those are not
>> there on passanger vans and will need to be drilled.
>>
>
>
> you can see perf stamping on the sound proofing stuff on top of deck. I was
> hoping if I cut thru the asphalt I'd find a hole. I think I will use a
> riv-nut instead of a nut bolt and fender washer.
>
> .
>
> The welded in brackets allows one less need for two people or creative use
>> of vice grips.
>> I found the act of cutting and removing from the westfalia pieces that
>> needed to be welded in to be a reassuring and important part of the
>> installation that constantly reminds me that this is not just a hacked
>> together bolt in job.
>>
>
>
> I just went out with a zip disk on angle grinder and tried taking one of
> the brackets off. Not fun, and not a good result. I think I will bolt down a
> sub frame under rear bench to take the place of the brackets. Same for the 2
> on kitchen side.
>
>
>
>> I suggest not installing any of the exterior (3) ports (water, electric,
>> water fill). There is just no point, and they are known to leak. I did cut
>> the hole for the dometic, and run mine on propane all the time and love
>> it.
>> However, when I do it again in the near future, I plan to install an
>> electric fridge and thus avoid cutting any holes. Cut the dometic hole by
>> first making and tripple checking your template, taping it on, and going
>> to
>> town with a nice scroll saw and a brand new Bosche Metal blade. You will
>> use
>> many of these (as well as 1/8'' drill bits!) so don't be afraid to replace
>> them.
>>
>
>
> Not going to install the ports either. I'll fill water tank from inside.
> if I had the money on hand I would put in electric fridge, but as is, will
> cut hole for dometic.
>
> your idea of replacing 110 volt outlets with 12 V ones is a good one. Will
> copy. Never used the 110 in my westy, except at home to power a low wattage
> heater to keep inside dry over winter storage.
>
>
>
>
> The swivel seat install particularly is handy on the passanger seat.
>> Don't put the westfalia window in behind the kitchen, keep the passanger
>> van
>> one! It's 50/50 to open rather than 60/40 and allows for greater
>> ventilation
>> while parked. They sell window screen kits that fit it.
>> Or better yet, put in the bay window Jelousey windows! (my next project!)
>>
>
> Agree to above. was only going to put swivel in pass seat. Never used
> drivers seat swivel that much, and I want to retain headroom for me (6-2).
>
>
> Drilling holes for the drain and propane and all that crap is best done
>> with
>> a series of "hole saws" that fit in your drill. Go buy nice metal ones.
>>
>
> got something better, a set of Greenlee punches. Will make nice holes :)
>
>
> I must be missing a few things off the top of my head, but that's a few
>> good
>> pointers to consider.
>> I'm way to young to have this much knowledge of how to do this......
>>
>
>
> thanks Craig. its very helpful to get your input.
>
> alistair
>
>
>
>
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