Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 22:06:06 -0400
Reply-To: pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: noise SOLVED. Now need to Heli-Coil?
In-Reply-To: <049501cb0c2b$4555a980$6701a8c0@PROSPERITY>
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I feel pretty confident with 3 bolts for now. I figure, if a noise comes
back, I know I have trouble right away.
But I think I'm going to try the helicoil repair this weekend. I don't want
to run 3 bolts long term. Is the insert really that hard to install? I
figure, after I drill and tap, that the insert must be pretty easy to get
in. And, where I'm' doing it, I'll have easy access. Not like doing this
in an engine compartment.
I ordered this kit (and a drill bit), should get here thursday:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SREP4/ref=oss_product
(13mm bolts ARE 1.25 pitch on VWs, right?)
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 9:37 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> so great that you found it.
> you can get away with only 3 of those 4 bolts going into the frame, if you
> just want to be running quietly again and don't want to make a project out
> of it.
>
> ideally only one threaded hole is stripped and the other 3 are ok.
> If I wanted to 'cheat' and stick the other 3 good ones in and leave things
> as be for now.
> I'd remove them one at a time..
> and put them back in with thread joint teflon tape on the threads.
> that would help prevent corrosion on the threads of the 3 good ones.
>
> that's just my 'cheater' suggestion to make it better without fixing it
> right really.
>
> I don't use threaded inserts much unless I have to.
> depends on how much metal is there.
> this would be nice ...
> real nice....if on the bad one the bolt broke off in place...
> then you could just dril and tap in place, and that threaded hole would be
> fine again.
> If it's fully stripped out oversize ...then sure ...an insert type repair.
> I think of using those more in things like cylinder heads than frame steel
> though.
>
> I would hate to do this, but one could cut a small hole through the side
> of the frame there, and rig a nut with a tap welded on it, what I call a
> 'jam tap' to it would lock against something and not turn while you tighten
> teh bolt from below.
>
> Vans do run fine with only 3 good bolts holding that front trans mount to
> the frame.
>
> how to treat the inside of the frame for rust though ..that's a trick.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "pickle vanagon" <
> greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 5:46 PM
> Subject: noise SOLVED. Now need to Heli-Coil?
>
>
>
> Robert Fisher was right.
>>
>> Two of the transmission mount bolts weren't properly tightened.
>>
>> They weren't really loose, which is why when I was checking over
>> everything
>> (I stared at that transmission mount at least 6 different times) but I
>> guess
>> there was a little bit of wiggle room for the mount to pivot diagonally
>> across the two looser screws. I think when I went to tighten them, I
>> mistook resistance related to rust and the weight of the transmission as
>> the
>> bolt cap tightening down all the way.
>>
>> But now I have a problem. One of the bolts, it seems, was made too tight.
>> Or maybe the threads were already trashed.
>>
>> So now my noise is gone but one of the four tranny mount bolt holes has
>> stripped out threads. Is a heli-coil the answer here? I've never had to
>> deal with this kind of situation before. Any help would be greatly(!!!)
>> appreciated. I guess I have to tap threads, and then insert the
>> heli-coil?
>>
>> So, thanks to *everybody* that listened to my noise and gave me their
>> feedback. It could have been any of the things people suggested, and the
>> encouragement to check over everything was exactly what I needed.
>>
>> Thanks again!!
>>
>
>
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