Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:21:29 EDT
Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Why my rear axle nuts got loose
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 24/06/2010 12:01:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
MJ. the bearings are not expensive. See here > _Vanagon New
Parts_ (http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm) under "Wheel Bearings" heading.
The rear wheel bearings can only be changed by removing the hub bearing
carrier. The bearings must be pressed out the side where the CV is bolted to
the stub axle, so you had better replace them both and make sure the spacer
is of the correct length listed on my website I just mentioned to you.
Also, read the following I wrote for the LiMBO newsleter some time ago :
"Folks, as a long time Vanagon shop mechanic, I need to comment on the
article in the last issue of The Transporter I received yesterday, about: "R&R
The Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly....on page 7. There is incorrect
information given in that article which could lead to problems and possibly an
accident. First and foremost the torque spec on the rear axle nut is 360 ft.
lbs. not 253 ft. lbs. as stated in the article. See page 42.4 in the
Vanagon Bentley workshop manual. Improper torque on this nut can lead to
problems. Secondly, replacing worn bearings with used bearings is not
mechanically sound advice. Especially since the rear wheel bearings and seals are
inexpensive items. The only "special" tool needed to change the bearings in
that hub is a pair of snap ring pliers. Removing the bearings from the hub
can be easily done with a drift and hammer. They are not pressed in
requiring any special press or bearing tool. Torqueing of the axle nut can be
done with the proper torque wrench or bring the vehicle to a truck repair
shop, or use the proper socket with breaker bar with an pipe extension.
Calculate your weight and then stand on the end of the extension bar the proper
distance from the centre of the axle to produce 360 ft' lbs. of torque.
Vehicle on its wheels, on the ground, rear hand brake fully engaged and wheel
being torqued blocked. Now, more to the problem, replacing the bearings
without checking the spacer, hub, splines and nut for wear can also lead to
more problems. The rear bearings are in a fixed length environment. The
distance is governed by the width of the bearing races, the spacer and the
hub. If any of these are worn then the distance is incorrect and tightening
the nut will not make it better. The nut will come to the end of its
threads on the spline and can certainly be torqued to spec and still not apply
the proper pre-load on the new bearings due to spacer, hub and or nut faces
being worn. Trust me I have seen all these scenarios in my shop. The
spacer and hub must be measured against the length of a new one. The Bentley
manual does not state these dimensions. I have measured new spacers and
they are 42.8 mm. I have documented that measurement on my _sales webpage_
(http://www.frankcondelli.com/sales.htm) where the listing for that spacer
resides. The hub width, I do not know as I have not had the opportunity to
have a new hub pass before me for measurement. However, if the two end
faces of the hub were showing signs of wear I would be suspicious. Also, the
face of the nut is important to be in good condition. Any reason to suspect
it would be reason enough to replace it with a new one. One last point is
to check the splines in the hub and on the axle for wear. If the bearings
were run loose for any considerable time, then the hub may certainly have
worn the splines and then the axle and hub should be replaced. To avoid
all of the problems you may see with this issue it is highly advisable to
check the rear wheel bearings at least once a year and repack them with
grease. Whenever I find more than 1/4" movement when trying to rock the rear
wheel with the van elevated off the ground and hand brake off, I first loosen
and re-torque the axle nut, then if the 1/4" movement is still there it's
time to look into renewing the rear wheel bearings and check the spacer, hub
and nut. I hope this helps someone before they follow the misinformation
and cause more problems than need be.
>>>>>The outer wheel bearings are fairly inexpensive. So I think I am
going to h=
ave them replaced. I am going to assume that the inner wheel bearings are=
=A0 still OK.=A0 It would be a much bigger job to replace them.=A0 Am I
mak=
ing a mistake=A0 by this assumption?=A0 =20<<<<<
Cheers,
Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
(http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html) -
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
_BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/) a VW Camper camping event,
Almonte, ON, June 10 ~ 13, 2010
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