Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 10:56:54 -0600
Reply-To: Fillmore West <fillmorewst@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Fillmore West <fillmorewst@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Why my rear axle nuts got loose
In-Reply-To: <e42eb.16abbecb.39548ba9@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Just went through all of this
Not too bad of a job
even for an amateur like myself.
Here's the Tool I use to torque the Axle Nut.
I stand out 2 ft from center.
Now you know my weight !!! ;o)
PS: List: Thanks for all of your help
with the Auto Trans Final Drive oil change!
In the end I just took the pan off.
(wanted to take a look in there, and to see if there was
a layer of crud on the bottom of the pan. There wasnt )
But, the ATF looked like brown gravy!
Doubt it had Ever been changed!
(Looked clean on the dip stick? )
So folks; change it! :o)
On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 4:21 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 24/06/2010 12:01:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
> MJ. the bearings are not expensive. See here > _Vanagon New
> Parts_ (http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm) under "Wheel Bearings"
> heading.
> The rear wheel bearings can only be changed by removing the hub bearing
> carrier. The bearings must be pressed out the side where the CV is bolted
> to
> the stub axle, so you had better replace them both and make sure the
> spacer
> is of the correct length listed on my website I just mentioned to you.
> Also, read the following I wrote for the LiMBO newsleter some time ago :
>
>
> "Folks, as a long time Vanagon shop mechanic, I need to comment on the
> article in the last issue of The Transporter I received yesterday, about:
> "R&R
> The Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly....on page 7. There is incorrect
> information given in that article which could lead to problems and
> possibly an
> accident. First and foremost the torque spec on the rear axle nut is 360
> ft.
> lbs. not 253 ft. lbs. as stated in the article. See page 42.4 in the
> Vanagon Bentley workshop manual. Improper torque on this nut can lead to
> problems. Secondly, replacing worn bearings with used bearings is not
> mechanically sound advice. Especially since the rear wheel bearings and
> seals are
> inexpensive items. The only "special" tool needed to change the bearings
> in
> that hub is a pair of snap ring pliers. Removing the bearings from the hub
> can be easily done with a drift and hammer. They are not pressed in
> requiring any special press or bearing tool. Torqueing of the axle nut
> can be
> done with the proper torque wrench or bring the vehicle to a truck repair
> shop, or use the proper socket with breaker bar with an pipe extension.
> Calculate your weight and then stand on the end of the extension bar the
> proper
> distance from the centre of the axle to produce 360 ft' lbs. of torque.
> Vehicle on its wheels, on the ground, rear hand brake fully engaged and
> wheel
> being torqued blocked. Now, more to the problem, replacing the bearings
> without checking the spacer, hub, splines and nut for wear can also lead
> to
> more problems. The rear bearings are in a fixed length environment. The
> distance is governed by the width of the bearing races, the spacer and the
> hub. If any of these are worn then the distance is incorrect and
> tightening
> the nut will not make it better. The nut will come to the end of its
> threads on the spline and can certainly be torqued to spec and still not
> apply
> the proper pre-load on the new bearings due to spacer, hub and or nut
> faces
> being worn. Trust me I have seen all these scenarios in my shop. The
> spacer and hub must be measured against the length of a new one. The
> Bentley
> manual does not state these dimensions. I have measured new spacers and
> they are 42.8 mm. I have documented that measurement on my _sales webpage_
> (http://www.frankcondelli.com/sales.htm) where the listing for that
> spacer
> resides. The hub width, I do not know as I have not had the opportunity
> to
> have a new hub pass before me for measurement. However, if the two end
> faces of the hub were showing signs of wear I would be suspicious. Also,
> the
> face of the nut is important to be in good condition. Any reason to
> suspect
> it would be reason enough to replace it with a new one. One last point is
> to check the splines in the hub and on the axle for wear. If the bearings
> were run loose for any considerable time, then the hub may certainly have
> worn the splines and then the axle and hub should be replaced. To avoid
> all of the problems you may see with this issue it is highly advisable to
> check the rear wheel bearings at least once a year and repack them with
> grease. Whenever I find more than 1/4" movement when trying to rock the
> rear
> wheel with the van elevated off the ground and hand brake off, I first
> loosen
> and re-torque the axle nut, then if the 1/4" movement is still there it's
> time to look into renewing the rear wheel bearings and check the spacer,
> hub
> and nut. I hope this helps someone before they follow the misinformation
> and cause more problems than need be.
>
>
>
> >>>>>The outer wheel bearings are fairly inexpensive. So I think I am
> going to h=
> ave them replaced. I am going to assume that the inner wheel bearings are=
> =A0 still OK.=A0 It would be a much bigger job to replace them.=A0 Am I
> mak=
> ing a mistake=A0 by this assumption?=A0 =20<<<<<
>
>
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html) -
> Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
> (http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
> _BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/) a VW Camper camping event,
> Almonte, ON, June 10 ~ 13, 2010
>
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