Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:59:10 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: More Clutch - part 4 or is it 5
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Hi.
lock tite on the flywheel bolts is essential..
it seals oil from coming up the threads of the bolts, besides sticking them
in there well.
like it's mandatory.
funny about NAPA gear oil.
I got a few bottles of their stuff just to be sure I had 'something' on
short notice..
and it says GL-3, 4 and 5 on the bottle.
GL-5 is considered better for pressure on gears ...and stiffer shifting
cold, and GL-4 is considered to be better shifting cold, easier on the
syncro's.
smart going on that felt seal retaiing ring. It's mandatory to have
something for a pilot bearing dust seal. With no seal ........the pilot
bearing rollers can fail easily in 2 years from clutch dust.
here is the new cool way I think ...
since those metal rings are ofen gone ( just got some custom made ones in
though ) ...
you use a Diesel Vanagon Pilot Bearing ..
since it has a much better built in rubber lip type dust seal. And it's a
smidge longer than the waterboxer pilot bearing ....and sticks out of the
crankshaft a little. So you bore out the center hole of the flywheel just a
little, like have a machine shop do it.
The outside diamter of a DV pilot brg is 20.8 mm. The stock hole in the
center of the flywheel is 16.8 mm ...just get that hole machined out to 21mm
and the flywheel will fit over the DV pilot bearing...
and from then on it'll be a much better deal. Just need to remember it's a
DV pilot bearing, and any truly vanagon savvy person would recongize it
anyway.
on the locating dowels for the pressure plate.
Critical that they be there. Not only for centering , but for rotational
relationship with the flywheel...ie. the pressure plate fits on only one
way, not 3 different ways . If you wanted to be really cool...
you would get the flywheel and pressure plate balanced as an assembly.
if you just can't get those roll pins ( not dowel pins actually ) I have a
cracked flywheel that I might be able to get the pins out of, or have a
machine shop extract them. They're in blind holes..not like you can punch
them out from the back side, though on the cracked flywheel it wouldn't be
too hard to drill holes on the back side to drive the pins out through, if
neccessary.
oh yeah...
I was just talking about how much I see greased things dry after a while.
I wonder if people realize the Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube is a friction
surface, to be lubed fairly generaously ?
the grooves on the inside of the TOB ..to me those are there to hold grease.
I use 'black moly' grease on every little spot that moves...not so much it
gets all over the place, but fairly generously.
and on the tip of the release lever where the slave push rod pushes,
and spray lube the crosshaft bushings until it moves very very nicely.
'usually' what I see is things carelessly assembled ...it's not in the
parts...it's in the workmanshp .
And metal....oh does metal like lubricants ! The tips of the crosshaft
forks, where the TOB rides....black moly grease there .
etc. etc.
Doesn't Bently mention some sealant on the flywhele bolts. ?
I will be surprised if the roll pins that located the pressure plate are 'a
part' you can buy anywhere.
The little metal ring is not 'a part' in normal parts systems. It's part of
the flywheel.
I priced a flywheel at my VW dealer once, just in case a new one was only
say, 200 bucks...
it was 700 something. yikes !
oh..roll pins........those are generic.
go to a good FLAPS and look in like Dorman Parts ..they might have them.
Also a good hardware store , like ACE ..
they also would have roll pins.
all the roll pins I have ever seen are high carbon steel, like hard and a
little springey .
Find ones that fit tightly............and stick out about 1/4 inch and
that'll be fine.
tedious ?
meticulous workmanship pays off , it's all in the details.
any hack can slam in a clutch ...
it takes an artist to do it really nicely ...and it's not even that hard to
do right.
read Edwards post about the sloppy work some shop just did on his auto trans
rebuild...
they sure missed the details seems to me .
Do it real carefully , each tiny step of the way,
drive it nice ..and it'll last a long, long time. Nearly indefenitely.
the vanagon clutches I have excellent luck with are Sachs clutches, rebuilt
in Mexico...
and they are just fine. You wouldn't even think they are rebuilt were it
not for a little tag.
ok....do good work !
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt Grotz" <kgrotz@CRAFTECH.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 7:32 PM
Subject: More Clutch - part 4 or is it 5
> So close! My nephew and I almost had that bad boy back in this afternoon.
> After reading the great on-line instructions and Boston Bobs video we were
> armed for reassembly bear. I even decided to get the flywheel machined!
> Well it was $55 not the oft mentioned 30, but it didn't break me. Well
> worth it to see that thing all pretty - and to see the really cool machine
> shop, complete with Pre 80's Westy But alas - the sticking points.
>
> 1. What gear oil? Again an issue, but I settled on NAPA brand GL-5.
> There were not other options. Pep Boys only had the new stuff called hypo
> something and if I was afriad of GL-5 this really had my hackles. So
> NAPA
> it is until I hear of a product and location better.
>
> 2. The thrush washer - that is a little hairy keeping that assembly
> together while putting in the oil seal. But it all went eventually with
> patience.
>
> 3. Flywheel - perfect fit.....dulp....what about the felt washer? I
> have
> 3 by this point with all the bearings ect I am collecting. And like the
> man
> said....they are all too big. And I even have one thing most apparently
> don't. The flywheel spacer to hold washer in place. If it fit. So I
> improvised. I cut it and took out a tiny segment and it fit like a glove.
> I think the 80 lbs tork on the bolts should hold it in place against the
> bearing. Any thoughts? Should I pull it and go feltless? There was
> no
> felt when I took it our originally.
>
> Also - flywheel issue - do I need locktight? Or is the 80 lbs good
> enought.
>
> 4. Ok we were started putting clutch on and I noticed - there are no
> dowels
> on the flywheel. I noticed one when I took it off. I noticed that if
> you
> don't have them the clutch would be unstable. Maybe that is what happened
> in the first place.
>
> So now I need to find the dowels. Hopefully a vendor will have them - but
> it looks like another lost weekend without the van.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Where does one find the little steel disk dowels?
> 2. Do I need locktight on flywheel bolts and clutch bolts?
> 3. Good source for good GL5 oil?
>
> I think that should cover it. Boy this is tedious
>
> Thanks as always.
>
> Falling Asleep
>
> Kurt
>
>
>
>
> Kurt A. Grotz
>
> www.themediastation.com
>
> 610-565-2530
>
> 484-477-2909
>
> "My mind thinks of way too many things to have an attention deficit"
