Date:         Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:11:27 -0500
Reply-To:     Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: New Engine Oil Leak Question
In-Reply-To:  <83B50BCC-8ED3-4988-AD6A-F89B5635332E@mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I won't put myself in the class of an expert waterboxer rebuilder, but
I have done a waterboxer and many aircooled VW and a porsche 911
engine. There is no reason to re-tighten the case bolts. I have never
had one leak, except maybe for my first two or three way back when.


You are not specific about where it is leaking, and you may not know.
I can't tell from the pictures; when you drive, oil gets blown all
around. But getting under there and spraying off with brake cleaner
will be a first step in finding out, which you must do. If the leak is
in the case, then your rebuilder owes--or at one time owed--you a
repair.

The waterboxer is complicated to rebuild. You have to mess with a lot
of things at once, most all of them wanting to get cockeyed or else
fall out while the case is going together. It's easy to mess up the
sealant and not be aware of it. Sometimes people use the wrong
sealant.

Hopefully, your problem will turn out to be something solvable with a
new gasket or seal or o-ring somewhere. But first, you have to find
out exactly where the leak is coming from.

Jim

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 11:51 AM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com> wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> It's been a while since I have been participating in the chats here, just not enough time..sorry.
>
> I have a question for the skilled rebuilders out there.
>
> I had my 2.1L automatic 1988 engine rebuilt last winter. It had 235,000 Miles on it and was rebuilt once before. I replaced the heads, rods, pistons and almost everything in it.
>
> I have just over 4,500 miles on it. A mix of highway and local hilly roads.
>
> To break it in for the for the first 3500 miles I used Standard Dino Oil. I changed it at 500 miles, 1000 Miles and again at 3500 Miles to remove any metal in the engine due to the break in of all the new parts.
> At first it leaked a bit then toward the end of the 3500 miles it stopped. When I say leak, I mean I used to see a 3-4 Inch puddle under the van every time time I drove it. Then it became a 2" puddle till it just stopped at the end of the 3500 miles.
>
> Once I hit 3500, I replaced the oil and Mahle filter with Mobil1 15-50. It leaked again, but now it was like a 2" puddle, with another 1,000 miles on it the oil the leaks have slowed a lot, but I am still seeing some oil pooling under the engine. I am not seeing puddle like I did before but is this normal or do I need to have the engine crank case tighten on the bottom of the engine?
>
> Here are some photos of what I am seeing.
> http://gallery.me.com/rmstewart#100147
>
> If you can give me your thoughts I would appreciate it.
>
> My thinking was that it might need a re-tightening now it's broken in a bit.
> I am just wondering if this is something I can do myself?
> If so, how? It appears to just use a bolt over some special screw.
>
> Thanks for help!
>
> Hope are all having a nice cool summer.
>
> All the best,
> Robert
> Bloomingburg, NY
>