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Date:         Sun, 1 Aug 2010 14:10:42 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!
Comments: To: Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

the hardest part about checking the high rpm side of the Dynamic Oil Pressure System ... is accessing the oil pressure switch by the crankshaft pulley.

the conditions to make the buzzer go off above 2,200 rpm are . - it's at or above that rpm - the DOPS does not see ground supplied by the hi rpm OP switch next to the crank pulley.

like on a soobie conversion, you just ground that wire .. ( Subaru's only have the one common/conventional single oil pressure switch .. that's not intelligent about rpm or anything ...same basic system as on a 1960 VW Bug or the vast majority of cars ) .. if that wire is grounded ... it keeps the buzzer off above 2,200 rpm .. whether it sees it by being grounded like for testing or a Subaru engine .. or the OP switch supplies it , OR ...the switch is good, and hot high rpm oil pressure is not enough to keep the OP switch supplying ground above 2.2K rpm.

it's a bother to check the OP with a test or temporally installed gauge. I always use nuts on studs for the lower exhaust studs that hold the upper mounting tabs of the push rod tin........and I notch them out, so you only need to unscrew the nut a few turns to get that over off. If I only have one upper tab secured at an exhaust stud ....that's fine, the cover's not going anywhere if the two lower bolts are in. so that was about having better access there.

You also need just the right socket to get the OP unscrewed between the pushrod tubes. and ... even better is to make a remove oil pressure sensing location for that OP switch .. or for both that OP switch and a sender for an electric OP gauge .. you can use metal pipe for a full time pipe to a little drilled and tapped block or arrangements of brass fittings . or you can use a grease gun tube as a oil pressure line out of there .. though not as good or long lasting or for sure as a metal line.

anyway.. trouble shoot on the high rpm side of the DOPS..involving the OP switch by the crankshaft pulley, having water pump pulley off helps access.

and if you don't fine success with OP switch part of the circuit. then you're down to either investigate the DOPS circuit board in the dash .. or connections as you say at T14.. maybe the OP sw. is supplying ground at high rpm and it's not getting through T14.

or find out what the actual real oil pressure is at higher rpm. a cheater test for that.... put in thicker oil ... if that makes it happy at hot high rpm ...that 'might' mean oil pressure was low with the old thinner oil.. doesn't really prove anything ...just would make you wonder what the real oil pressure is . like maybe it's marginal at a hot 3,000 rpm.. and 100,000 .. it would be possible for rod bearing oil clearance to be o the high side with those many miles.

oil analysis will tell you a LOT about internal condition of the engine . worth the 50 to 60 bucks or so they tell you about 25 things about the oil.. the metals in it, if there's a-frz in it, if there's fuel in it .. they'll flag out or normal range readings .. like if there's a higher than normal amount of rod bearing material in the oil... then you know.

Scott www.turbovans.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Clarkson" <Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 9:55 AM Subject: Oil pressure light and buzzer-Arrgh!

> Time for some diagnostic work I'm afraid. In my ten years of owning my 90 > Westy I have never had this warning activate. It went off just yards from > my > driveway fortunately (thank you Van Gods). I checked it again this morning > and it does magically activate at 2200 RPM's. I have perused that > Archives > and will set out to check all of the wiring and also for leaks at the > sensors. Of course, I have 15w-40 Mobil 1, correct oil level , Mahle > filter and > no apparent issues with the oil itself. Quick check doesn't show any > corrosion at the connector that splits off the wiring to each of the > sensors. > Not looking forward to possible removal of exhaust nuts to remove the > engine > tin. I have had some sort of slow oil leak from behind this tin so I'll > check this too. Wonder could it be a leaking sensor? I had the van up on > a > lift cleaning off dye in the AC for a known leak at one of the condenser > connections (another frustrating problem now secondary to this > frightening issue > ) then after driving about 15 miles home it went off and my heart sank. > Just don't have the money in the budget for the Subi 2.5 transplant yet. > The > only other likely possibility not near the engine area that might explain > this issue is the sometimes problematic 14 point ribbon connection at the > speedo that is very fragile with a broken corner of the plastic that the > ribbon folds over and the connector slips on to. According to the > archives this > connector carries the wiring from the sensors. Guess its time to get her > up on ramps (don't want to drive back to work to use the lift should I > have > a true oil pressure issue) and scrape the knuckles and try not to use my > outside cursing voice. The engine was rebuilt about 100,000 miles ago by > The > Bug Shop in Blacksburg, Va. -Plug for the Bug Shop and Jewel the > owner-excellent rebuild IMHO. It was broken in on conventional Dino oil > for the first > 10,000 miles and then nothing but 15-40 Mobil One. Oil changed every > 7,000 > miles and filter change every 3500 miles. I'll report back on my > findings. > Got to have her ready for the trip to the Outer Banks without breaking > the > bank in two weeks. > > > > David Clarkson > 1990 Westfalia


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