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Date:         Fri, 13 Aug 2010 16:16:21 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Replaced Fuel Lines
Comments: To: Kevin Gilbert <kggilbert@MYACTV.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=response

I hope you got rid of the notorious firewall fitting Kevin.

no need for that part on the van at all.

for those that are 'all paranoid' because they have not replaced their fuel hoses .. here's what I do .. the weak spots are the ends of the hoses , where the hose clamps are.

the original style 'crimp' hose clamps ...I don't trust those too much. and ...'where they usually leak first' is on the transmission side of the firewall at that firewall fitting .. it goes : plastic firewall fitting, then a two inch hose, then the plastic black fuel line .

right where it goes from hose to plastic line, with a crimp type hose clamp..that is where they usually leak first that I have seen seen that a number of times actually. what I do is go around the firewall fitting, connoting the engine hose ( from the 'T' with fuel pressure testing port on top of it ) ...connect that hose directly to the black plastic fuel line above the starter .

Drives me nuts that people want to run that hose through the hole in the firewall and protect the hose from the metal of the hole edge with a grommet when there is no reason to run the hose through that hole in the first place !! like why protect it going through a metal hole it doesn't even need to go through ??? duh.

so I just run the hose through that big fat space next to the bell housing. I arrange it so I can see the hose-to-pipe junction..so I can glance at it any time I'm by the engine. I sometimes use two hose clamps there. I like good german screw type hose clamps.. and probably.. the best ones are a 'band clamp' with a regular small screw that squeezes the whole thing around the hose ...they come in regular corrosion treated metal or stainless.

where I see original crimp type hose clamps .. I cut those off and put on good screw clamps. if the end of the hose is buggered up some, I cut a half inch off to get a fresh new end.

I was replacing hoses on a 91 syncro ....whole new engine installation, etc... the original hose .. that stuff is so tough it looks like you could tow a car with it. I doubt most hose that people are going to get at a FLAPS is as good really.

if anything is weak, it's the ends of the hoses where the clamps are .. the clamps themselves ....like those crimp style ones ...( they can be tightened up ) .. and that firewall fitting. that you really want to bypass and get rid of. the hoses themselves.. if original, most of the time they are pretty good yet, just keep an eye on the ends of them .. and make sure you have the correct type hose clamps .

my least favorite hose clamp is the typical american small # 4 type..they cut into the hose badly .. very poor workmanship to use those in my opinion. you know what I say a lot .. it's not that new parts where installed...that's not 'it' at all...it's with what WORKMANSHIP they were installed with that really matters. I see hoses replaced with the fuel pressure testing port put somewhere where you can't access it ..dumb stuff like that ..or those small pinchy # 4 amelican hose clamps used that cut into the hose surface badly.

fwiw, a GW hose kit includes crimp style hose clamps which they say are superior .. personally, I like a clamp with a smooth underside, not sharp edges and some screw arrangement since you can check out tight it is, or undo it to take things apart etc.

I'm real big on keeping the stock hose coverings on too. or some cover ..even heater hose .. just seems like they should be protected, particularly on the engine.

and of course, you gotta carry a good fire extinguisher where you can get to it NOW ... not dig under the seat for it. I have gotten maybe 6 to 8 vehicle fires out in the last 40 years or so, possibly more, and in every case I got it out in the first 30 seconds , or even less. That's critical and key .. once a nice fire gets going it's bye bye vanagon, but caught and stopped right away, not even a big deal.

diesel vans are susceptible to fire as well, usually from electrical issues. Seen that for sure.

and if a VW is over 20 years old, you should have two fire extinguishers. yeah ..that's my rule............one fire extinguisher on board , easy to reach in a hurry , for each 10 years of VW vehicle age.

and if you see any Halon extinguishers ( a banned substance for greenhouse effect reasons ) ..you want one. I used one recently ..that stuff is Magic !

Scott www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Gilbert" <kggilbert@MYACTV.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 3:33 PM Subject: Replaced Fuel Lines

> Vanderers, > > For those who appreciate such news, I replaced the engine compartment > fuel lines today. Later this weekend I'll move forward with new lines. > > I hope to drive fire-free another few years. Done the job twice in 20 > years, should have been thrice. > > For those who know they should replace their aging fuel lines, just do > it. No special tools, just some smarts, patience, and an afternoon. > > Peace (of mind...) > > Kevin > '84 Westy


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