Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:20:03 -0500
Reply-To: mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikEBosOa+UrEuZ7qN2iZ=gsPXeQtF8k4Pxy7Zhh@mail.gmail.com>
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Neil, thanks. On the trip out West, I tried to shut the heater off numerous times, under various circumstances. The air that comes through the heater is very hot, regardless of outside temperature, once the engine is warmed up, regardless of lever position. I've tried to shut off the valve, leaving the air vents closed, for a good long while (an hour or more) when the outside temperature was cool, then open the air vents. Still get very hot air. So, I essentially have no ventilation.
The valve is cheap (under five dollars from GoWesty Parts, plus shipping) so it seems a no brainer to replace it if I can do it myself, or even if I decide to have it done. I'm inclined to do this one myself (join the greasy knuckle crowd for a change).
---- neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
> > Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL Campmobile won't shut off. That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat, since shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering the cabin.
> >
> > So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve. Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped. Valve appears to turn from external view when the lever is shifted. I can turn the valve directly with my hand, and the lever shifts. Did this with a partner watching the lever, and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under the van. Seems to work both ways.
> >
> > So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right? Looks simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system. Well, that's another story. Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve? Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are experts, I'm not.
> >
> > David McNeely
> >
>
>
> How long did you give the heater core to cool down when testing and
> was this possible in cooler temps? (say at night)
>
> Re: valve replacement. If hoses are clamped shut, then valve removed,
> if one doesn't lose too much coolant, the amount of air introduced
> shouldn't be a big deal to bleed out.
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
--
David McNeely
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