Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 15:00:54 -0700
Reply-To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Cable for Pop Top Assist DONE. Pics.
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinoSVxvANFJM_DOdg=TH=e6jTkhRYi8X1MaS08p@mail.gmail.com>
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On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 9:38 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> Pics and stuff:
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/PopTopStrutCableAndSpringEtc#5509194616098716066
A parts list and how I did it should my pics disappear someday.
Per cable:
- 28" of 3/32" stainless steel cable designed for flexible use. Likely
7 x 19 but ask vendor. (I can't find receipt!). Though I saw something
very similar on parts I removed, I was advised NOT to use 1x19.
- 3/32" stainless steel single shank swage ball.
- 3/32" NicoPress ferrule
- duct tape
- 1/4" x 1-1/4" grade 8 bolt cut to 15 mm (measured from underside of head)
- washer
- 1/4" nylon locking nut
- Medium strength bolt same length as OEM part with head big enough to
cover end of spring. With ball swaged on, measured swage OD at shank,
drilled same size hole through bolt. Counter sunk to allow ball to be
flush inside head. Maybe one could drill out OEM part same way. (not
tested)
- 21" x 3" 3/4" plywood strip
- new push nuts for pivot pin on lower arm and stop pin.
Cable, NicoPress, SS ball, sourced at marine shops. Shop that does
rigging work should have a swage machine and NicoPress tool. I was
charged $10/ball swage, no charge at other shop for me to use
NicoPress tool and cable cutter. Rest of parts can be found at a
hardware store.
Tools I found useful
- coat hanger to fish cable through spring
- Dental mirror to line up push bar through arm holes at canvas side
- wood (above) to measure cable before crimping. Old cable length
measured from OC of "Z" to underside face of stopper. ( I got 19 -
7/16" )Wood strip has hole slightly smaller than 1/4" through face
near one end. With 1/4" bolt threaded in, length transferred to wood
strip from OC of bolt. Made mark at other end. Installed ferrule
loose, eye balled loop size, played around with length (picture tying
a tie) until correct or close to it. I erred on being slightly too
short if anything as the OEM cable was under slight tension when top
up. Presumably so Z fitting (or in this case, loop) doesn't come
loose.
- drill press
- grinder (though one could file things)
Rest of tools standard issue.
How I did it. YMMV.
Got shop to swage ball on cable. Made stopper bolt installed on new
cable. Ferrule loose, sized new cable on wood strip, secured cable
length with duct tape below ferrule, checked length again, crimped.
Trimmed excess. Safely supported top open, "relaxed" strut on one side
slightly to rear, removed pin at end of lower arm, cross bolt at push
bar, tapped arms off. Enlarged hole at upper arm slightly for new 1/4"
bolt. Removed stop pin on lower arm. Cut one coil off spring.
Installed spring, fished cable through. Inserted bolt/washer through
cable loop. With end of lower arm up at 180* or higher, (temp. tape on
end may be useful to keep spring in.... you almost need 3 hands now)
inserted bolt into enlarged hole, threaded on nylon locking nut.
Tightened so cable could pivot with a little resistance, but not too
tight that it crushed cable. Lined up arm holes, installed push bar,
cross bolt, stop pin, lower pin. Used new push nuts.
As of 2010, VW had part (NLA) listed for ~ $45 Cnd. Cable can be made
for 1/2 that easily (before tax). If I've missed any details, my
apologies. Info used here is at your own risk. :) Aside from
"reverse making" this part, challenging bits for me were: installing
cable loop etc. to upper arm, lining up arm holes so push bar would go
in, drilling a totally straight hole in butt bolt. (I hold my drill
press responsible for this. ;)
Neil.
--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
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