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Date:         Sun, 22 Aug 2010 17:29:04 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: How Hot Behind Dometic Fridge On 100+F Day? (insulation
              clearances)
Comments: To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <AANLkTikXLg0678YCt1ESEzB3_zQJNKROqPA2MmZ74cxa@mail.gmail.c om>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 02:38 PM 8/22/2010, neil n wrote: >Hi Dave. > >I checked my 182 manual, but didn't see clearance measurements. I'll >check it again. Thanks for the offer.

My manual (I know from the little doodle on the cover) is here as a .pdf http://www.vanagon.com/static/img/old/info/articles/refrigerator/RM182B_Manual.pdf and it has the measurements for installation. Unfortunately the compression is too much to read the numbers easily. The only spec for rear clearance is minimum 5" at the bottom to clear the panel.

>Yes I have to wonder about possible R value gained, and clearance >lost. As it stands, fins at lower 1/3 of fridge protrude furthest (not >by much compared to the other fins), part of which should just touch >the final layer of cement board. But. Part of what I want to >accomplish is a more stream lined air flow behind the fridge. The >insulation should aid in this regard. i.e. instead of hot air >billowing up behind the cabinetry, it is directed more so to the stock >vent behind stove lid.

I hope you've noticed that both the top and side vents have more closed area than open. I removed my top vent cover entirely, and made a hump in the side vent that gave it some good clear area (2-3 square inches maybe?) at the sides while still covering the opening pretty well.

>(hopefully most of the hot air will be vented >by the City Water fan)

I think that's a great idea technically. For best efficiency the top vent should be blocked entirely, I believe. Not so sure about the side vent -- I can't remember whether it was a net exporter or importer of air. I think it was an exporter and in that case it should be closed as well.

I'm not *quite* so happy about the noise, although there are slow-speed fans available which are considerably quieter. For best efficiency the fan needs to be as large as possible physically. There are now fans available with automatic thermostatic speed control.

>I removed the OEM fiberglass material and am hesitant to install >similar (if that's the type you're referring to, if not any links?).

I think that's wise.

Which reminds me, a complete digression -- it is *not safe* to drink hot tea with lemon from styrene-foam hot cups. The hot acid working on the large surface area of foam dissolves a significant amount of styrene into the drink.

Yours, David


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