http://www.vanagon.com/static/img/old/info/articles/refrigerator/RM182B_Manual.pdf
> and it has the measurements for installation. Unfortunately the compression
> is too much to read the numbers easily. The only spec for rear clearance is
> minimum 5" at the bottom to clear the panel.
Found it thanks. FWIW to others, I found it readable by sizing browser
image larger.
>> Yes I have to wonder about possible R value gained, and clearance
>> lost. As it stands, fins at lower 1/3 of fridge protrude furthest (not
>> by much compared to the other fins), part of which should just touch
>> the final layer of cement board. But. Part of what I want to
>> accomplish is a more stream lined air flow behind the fridge. The
>> insulation should aid in this regard. i.e. instead of hot air
>> billowing up behind the cabinetry, it is directed more so to the stock
>> vent behind stove lid.
>
> I hope you've noticed that both the top and side vents have more closed area
> than open. I removed my top vent cover entirely, and made a hump in the
> side vent that gave it some good clear area (2-3 square inches maybe?) at
> the sides while still covering the opening pretty well.
I had noticed the upper vent was small, but see now what you mean.
That upper vent has thick-ish bits separating openings. Same as side
vent. Good point. Some have added an exhaust fan to side vent.
>> (hopefully most of the hot air will be vented
>> by the City Water fan)
>
> I think that's a great idea technically. For best efficiency the top vent
> should be blocked entirely, I believe. Not so sure about the side vent -- I
> can't remember whether it was a net exporter or importer of air. I think it
> was an exporter and in that case it should be closed as well.
This is what my gut told me; make a "duct" of sorts from intake under
fridge to city water exhaust fan. But. Gut also says let it vent up
top. i.e. One would have to leave city water fan on almost all the
time if upper vent behind stove blocked. And.... I don't have the
smarts to determine if the fan (although highest CFM / lowest amp draw
I could find) would keep up with the heat created in that duct space
as the main, or only, means of exhausting the heat out. But....
To test, putting some duct tape on each would be easy.
> I'm not *quite* so happy about the noise, although there are slow-speed fans
> available which are considerably quieter. For best efficiency the fan needs
> to be as large as possible physically. There are now fans available with
> automatic thermostatic speed control.
To my hand, it felt like the Dometic fan blades pushed more air than a
computer case fan. Pretty sure it had a wider pattern too. But. That
was with a 3" or 4" case fan.
>> I removed the OEM fiberglass material and am hesitant to install
>> similar (if that's the type you're referring to, if not any links?).
>
> I think that's wise.
Oh ya!
Neil.
--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
