Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 17:17:13 -0700
Reply-To: BenT Syncro <syncro@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: BenT Syncro <syncro@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Clutch alignment tool? and Lapping compound ?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTins-G8_0_-NOyoE89TB9f0P2Q=7rp7-s-ic0_XB@mail.gmail.com>
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Don,
In recent times, everytime I've bought a new clutch plate, it came with a plastic alignment tool in the box.
BenT
Sent from my pressureplate
On Sep 4, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> I am in the process of swapping parts around in my 84 5sp manual
> transmission inline gas VW powered vanagon. I took out my 1.8 liter 92
> Jetta motor to swap in a 2.0 liter Jetta bottom end. I'll reinstall my 1.8
> liter head onto the new 2.0 liter block and also re-use my 1.8 liter
> 'everything else' almost on the ABA block. The ABA block is said to make
> more power.
>
> So I haven't swapped a clutch recently. I know I have to align the disc
> so it will remate with the output shaft of the trans. Most people seem to
> use a second old tranny shaft? Or some special tool? Is there a way to
> "McGuiver" something that would work without trying to source a spare shaft
> or mail order a clutch alignment tool? I did a quick Google and I see the
> tool for pretty inexpensive, but I really want to finish up this swap in a
> day or two and get my van going again. Could I carve or shape something
> from wood or PVC pipe or some-such, maybe duplicate the dimensions of my
> existing output shaft..since all the same parts need to remate anyhow? I am
> working alone, so I want my reinstallation of the motor to be as smooth as
> possible.
>
> Second question....I've seen valves lapped into heads using an abrasive
> compound on the valve seat and simply spinning the valve with some kind of
> compound between the valve and the seat. I want to surface my 1.8liter head
> myself, in that same manner. In order to clean off all the old gasket and
> get a good seal without taking it to a machine shop and trusting that job to
> someone I don't know, I want to use some lapping compound and a flat
> surface, like thick plate glass, and simply 'plane' the surface of the head
> by hand until it is shiny and flat. Has anyone done this? It looks like I
> can do it without removing the cam or the valves..just take off the
> manifolds and I have the bottom of the head clear. I want to put it
> face-down on the flat surface with some compound and simply 'sand down' the
> mating surface till it is smooth, clean and flat.
>
> I see that compound comes in a couple of "grades", like sandpaper. What
> grade do I need to go down to in order to get a good headgasket seal? My
> "new" block was not leaking when I took that head off. The old 1.8 liter
> one was leaking, but the head is ok, not cracked or badly warped. The last
> time I removed and replaced that head, I did not surface anything..and after
> 40k miles, the headgasket did blow out between two of the cylinders...I
> recall someone saying "If you can avoid 'unsealing a motor' you should. It
> is difficult to get a good headgasket seal again"...They seem to have been
> right on..cause mine did eventually leak...Probably due to me cutting
> corners with the re-assembly...
>
> Anyone know these answers or care to advise? Thanks
>
> Don Hanson