Date:         Sat, 4 Sep 2010 16:16:15 -0700
Reply-To:     Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Clutch alignment tool? and Lapping compound ?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

  I am in the process of swapping parts around in my 84 5sp manual
transmission inline gas VW powered vanagon.  I took out my 1.8 liter 92
Jetta motor to swap in a 2.0 liter Jetta bottom end.  I'll reinstall my 1.8
liter head onto the new 2.0 liter block and also re-use my 1.8 liter
'everything else' almost on the ABA block.  The ABA block is said to make
more power.

  So I haven't swapped a clutch recently.  I know I have to align the disc
so it will remate with the output shaft of the trans.  Most people seem to
use a second old tranny shaft? Or some special tool?  Is there a way to
"McGuiver" something that would work without trying to source a spare shaft
or mail order a clutch alignment tool?  I did a quick Google and I see the
tool for pretty inexpensive, but I really want to finish up this swap in a
day or two and get my van going again.  Could I carve or shape something
from wood or PVC pipe or some-such, maybe duplicate the dimensions of my
existing output shaft..since all the same parts need to remate anyhow?  I am
working alone, so I want my reinstallation of the motor to be as smooth as
possible.

  Second question....I've seen valves lapped into heads using an abrasive
compound on the valve seat and simply spinning the valve with some kind of
compound between the valve and the seat.  I want to surface my 1.8liter head
myself, in that same manner.  In order to clean off all the old gasket and
get a good seal without taking it to a machine shop and trusting that job to
someone I don't know, I want to use some lapping compound and a flat
surface, like thick plate glass, and simply 'plane' the surface of the head
by hand until it is shiny and flat. Has anyone done this?  It looks like I
can do it without removing the cam or the valves..just take off the
manifolds and I have the bottom of the head clear. I want to put it
face-down on the flat surface with some compound and simply 'sand down' the
mating surface till it is smooth, clean and flat.

 I see that compound comes in a couple of "grades", like sandpaper.  What
grade do I need to go down to in order to get a good headgasket seal?  My
"new" block was not leaking when I took that head off.  The old 1.8 liter
one was leaking, but the head is ok, not cracked or badly warped.  The last
time I removed and replaced that head, I did not surface anything..and after
40k miles, the headgasket did blow out between two of the cylinders...I
recall someone saying "If you can avoid 'unsealing a motor' you should. It
is difficult to get a good headgasket seal again"...They seem to have been
right on..cause mine did eventually leak...Probably due to me cutting
corners with the re-assembly...

  Anyone know these answers or care to advise?  Thanks

  Don Hanson