Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 13:39:07 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: "Wish in one hand, _____ in the other..." Clutch ?
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re
"But, since these are hydraulic, I don't know what you would adjust. Hmm"
I just wrote a big thing the other day addressing what is adjustable on
vanagon clutch hydraulics,
what commonly can wear and be a problem, how the whole thing is
self-adjusting at the slave cylinder ..
that the only adjustment is push rod length from clutch pedal to clutch
master cylinder etc. etc.,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Paquette" <raymondpaquette@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:53 AM
Subject: Re: "Wish in one hand, _____ in the other..." Clutch ?
> I don't know the specifics of these two blocks, but changing engines
> would in general, change the clutch adjustment.
>
> Consider that the clutch is all mounted to the engine, and the throwout
> bearing is on the transmission. A small difference in how far the clutch
> extends out from the engine would change the engagement point a lot.
>
> But, since these are hydraulic, I don't know what you would adjust. Hmm
>
> Ray
>
>
> On 9/22/2010 12:02 PM, Don Hanson wrote:
>> I've recently had my engine out. Inline 4 VW/5sp manual tranny. It
>> went back in with significantly more power (result of a new block). I
>> re-used the clutch and flywheel from my 1.8liter block, un-touched, on
>> the
>> "new" 2.0liter block. I did not replace anything. Everything looked to
>> be
>> in acceptable shape, so I bolted it all up. Now my clutch is slipping
>> under
>> load. I have searched everything online on Clutch slipping..and it looks
>> like I have a 'clutch job' to do, but grasping at straws here, I am
>> wondering about cheap/easy fixes, first. That quote in the subject line
>> goes: "Wish in one hand, crap in the other hand and see which one fills
>> up
>> first" and is an old Ski Patrol saying from my Jackson Hole days, cleaned
>> up
>> for a family list.
>>
>> It's mentioned in Ben's Pages that adjustment might be a cause of
>> slippage..Is that just the pedal freeplay adjustment? I wanna check the
>> easy stuff before I remove the tranny for a real look. The clutch pedal
>> does feel pretty "close to the top"..Would changing the block affect the
>> clutch pedal/linkage adjustment? Could I possible gain some more grip
>> with
>> a few turns on some rod somewhere?....
>>
>> Could the parts be 'not fitting' correctly? Like the flywheel / crank
>> being different, given this is a different crank bolted to the old
>> flywheel? Would that cause the clutch to be "too loose"? When I snugged
>> up
>> the pressure plate, it had about 4-5 millimeters of space when the
>> bolts came finger tight..Was that too little, causing the pressure plate
>> (clutch basket?) to allow slippage? The 'new' motor does exert a
>> significant amount more power. The clutch slipped as I was climbing a 6%
>> hill in my 4th gear and lugged the motor at full throttle to see how the
>> timing might be....She just spun up under power without touching the
>> clutch
>> pedal..
>>
>> I have oil dripping. I know now that I should have replaced the pilot
>> bearing and all those nearby seals (which looked good, but..) I get a
>> spot
>> of about 6" diameter when I park after a highway run...coming from the
>> junction of tranny and engine. I will be raising the rig back up today
>> to
>> have a look...I could easily have a leaking pan (diesel-style, engine
>> sits
>> in there at 50degree slant) causing that drip...The rear main seal of the
>> 2.0 liter block showed no leaking, so I didn't replace that, either..My
>> tranny was not leaking into the T.O. bearing area, either.
>>
>> any advice?
>>
>> thanks, Don Hanson
>>
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