Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:10:01 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: "Wish in one hand, _____ in the other..." Clutch ?
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Don,
it's so great that you always give a bit of background/history so any one
reading your post 'fresh' knows what's going on. That's so appreciated !
same flywheel and pressure plate and disc as before ?
the precise same ones just bolted to the new 2.0 block ?
I assume so.
As far as I know, dimensionally the 2.0 block and crank are identical to
your 1.8.
Consider that though.
pilot bearing ..I sure hope you have a diesel vanagon in the end of your
ABA crankshaft.
gotta have one there.
that pressure plate gap before tightening pressure plate screws..
4 or 5 mm does sound small, though I never watch that too much ..
7mm is 1/4 inch,
so 4 mm is like 'nothin'.
You'd expect there to be a larger distance and more compressing of the
pressure plate,
Is the disc thin ?
I have perhaps 4 used diesel vanagon clutch discs and pressure plates if you
care to take a chance with used stuff.
there is exactly One adjustment in the entire clutch hydrualic system.
that's the push rod length at the clutch pedal and clucth master cylinder.
Normally you never change that adjustment. It is just awful to do ..semi
impossibly almost.
And ...the only thing it affect is free play at the top of the clutch pedal.
Has to be some ...ike 1/8 inch ..
1/4 inch is fine, 1/2 is is getting big but still works.
an inch is a mile and the pivot pin and holes for it wear, sometimes badly,
..
it's a metal to metal pivot point at the clutch pedal clevis and pin
arrangement ..at least spray lube up in their blindly ......there's no other
provision for lubrication and it's just cheaply made there. So if that point
wears, free play at the top of the pedal increases ..
and often it's ok just 'forever' too.
and increased freepay there is about loosing disengagement ability .
nothing to do with allowing full grip of the pressure plate onto the clutch
disc. So as long as there some freeplay at the top of the clutch pedal
travel ..you're fine there.
If it's firm, as though you were holding the clutch pedal down a bit ..
that's not right.
is your flywheel OK ..?
if it gets machined, they have to preserve the 'step distance' ..take equal
amounts off both the clutch disc face and where the pressure plate bolts up.
4mm before screws start to tighten at the pressure plate sure does sound
'weak' .
In any case, sure sounds like it needs to come back apart, unless there is
some external assembly mistake somehow.
thanks for sharing your whole process here, it's fun.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hanson" <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: "Wish in one hand, _____ in the other..." Clutch ?
> I've recently had my engine out. Inline 4 VW/5sp manual tranny. It
> went back in with significantly more power (result of a new block). I
> re-used the clutch and flywheel from my 1.8liter block, un-touched, on the
> "new" 2.0liter block. I did not replace anything. Everything looked to
> be
> in acceptable shape, so I bolted it all up. Now my clutch is slipping
> under
> load. I have searched everything online on Clutch slipping..and it looks
> like I have a 'clutch job' to do, but grasping at straws here, I am
> wondering about cheap/easy fixes, first. That quote in the subject line
> goes: "Wish in one hand, crap in the other hand and see which one fills
> up
> first" and is an old Ski Patrol saying from my Jackson Hole days, cleaned
> up
> for a family list.
>
> It's mentioned in Ben's Pages that adjustment might be a cause of
> slippage..Is that just the pedal freeplay adjustment? I wanna check the
> easy stuff before I remove the tranny for a real look. The clutch pedal
> does feel pretty "close to the top"..Would changing the block affect the
> clutch pedal/linkage adjustment? Could I possible gain some more grip
> with
> a few turns on some rod somewhere?....
>
> Could the parts be 'not fitting' correctly? Like the flywheel / crank
> being different, given this is a different crank bolted to the old
> flywheel? Would that cause the clutch to be "too loose"? When I snugged
> up
> the pressure plate, it had about 4-5 millimeters of space when the
> bolts came finger tight..Was that too little, causing the pressure plate
> (clutch basket?) to allow slippage? The 'new' motor does exert a
> significant amount more power. The clutch slipped as I was climbing a 6%
> hill in my 4th gear and lugged the motor at full throttle to see how the
> timing might be....She just spun up under power without touching the
> clutch
> pedal..
>
> I have oil dripping. I know now that I should have replaced the pilot
> bearing and all those nearby seals (which looked good, but..) I get a
> spot
> of about 6" diameter when I park after a highway run...coming from the
> junction of tranny and engine. I will be raising the rig back up today to
> have a look...I could easily have a leaking pan (diesel-style, engine sits
> in there at 50degree slant) causing that drip...The rear main seal of the
> 2.0 liter block showed no leaking, so I didn't replace that, either..My
> tranny was not leaking into the T.O. bearing area, either.
>
> any advice?
>
> thanks, Don Hanson
| 
