Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 16:11:21 -0400
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: checking castor (i.e. caster)
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On Fri, Nov 5, 2010 at 2:03 PM, Zolly <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:
> Larry,
> I would like you to let me know, how you would use that digital level.
> Zoltan
>
Hi,
I bought the cheapest ($25) one at a Menards Homecenter since I
happened to be going there. They also had one for $60 which looked
identical. The body of the device has a digital readout which reads
to a tenth of a degree and two bubble vials which let you orient it
either horizontal or vertical accurately. At one end an arm is
attached which you open sort of like a jack knife or bevel square so
that overall it is a vee shape with the display indicating the angle
between the two legs.
In principle you just hold the arm against the wheel, touching at
the top and bottom and then move the body of the instrument outward
until the bubble shows that it is plumb and then read the angle from
the digital readout. Which end of the device you put up or down
depends on whether you think the wheel tilts out or in at the top.
In practice, the hub of the front wheel sticks out enough to be in
the way if you want to measure at the center. You can move forward or
back to miss the hub, but then the length of the level still causes it
to hit the tire instead of the edges of the rim. If you are willing
to overlook the irregularities of the tires you can just rest the
level against the tire and go ahead.
Since I wanted to work from the edges of the rims, I used spacers
(two sockets of equal length) between the edges of my allow wheels and
the arm of the level. It takes three hands and some dexterity to hold
everything in place, but I am fairly satisfied with the results and
the eventual adjustments that I made to the caster. I intend to make
a bracket of some kind with projecting screws to serve as a more
practical spacer.
Note that these measurements are meaningless unless the van is level
left to right. I think the best place to put a level to check is in
the back, just behind the engine compartment lid.
On a related note, after declaring the front alignment finished
yesterday, I spent the morning today trying to adjust the rear camber.
The back wheels of this van have always tilted inward at the top
noticeably. I had tried in the past to make this adjustment as shown
in the Bentley, without success. Rusted solid.
This time I soaked things in PB blaster for three days and resolved
to give it my best shot. Using a 22 mm box wrench and large mallet I
got the nut loose on the large bolt. As before, it would not
willingly move up or down. After considerable hammering and prying
with large bars I finally got the inner end where I had loosened the
nut to move up and down. The bolt would not turn more than about a
sixth of a turn back and forth. It seems to be rusted solid to a
sleeve which is bonded to the inside of the rubber bushing. I believe
the rotation I can get is from the twisting of the bushing.
The head of the bolt and its washer would not move downward even
with vigorous hammering with a large blunt chisel. Finally after
heating the bolt head and surrounding bracket with a cutting torch
until the rubber was smoking and starting to melt, I got it to move
about 3 mm or so. I held the other end as far as it would go with a
pry bar while I tightened the nut. That wheel still has a little
tilt, but it's noticeably less than it was.
I am about to go back to the shop to try the other (drivers) side.
Quite a bit more trouble to get the fiberglas out of the way there.
If anyone has done this battle of adjusting the rear camber and has
any insights, please feel free to comment!
Larry A.
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