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Date:         Sun, 12 Dec 2010 20:29:35 -0600
Reply-To:     Alan Felder <dieseldoofus@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alan Felder <dieseldoofus@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Wiring in a new Stereo Unit
Comments: To: Michael Sullivan <sandwichhead@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <AANLkTikMBn1AEFaWO3_wwbmnm4D5CcO65Mn5FaD7BAiU@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Michael - with the key off (or in my case the separate switch), there won't be much draw to worry about, only a little less than 0.02A. In my case, having a camper, I wanted to be able to use the remote control from bed to turn the stereo off. Unfortunately, without getting out of bed and switching the switch off, even when no more sound is coming out and there's no lights on in the unit except for the "on" button, it still is drawing 0.68 Amps. If I was camping in one spot then in a couple of days I would not be able to start the engine. Defeats the purpose of the remote control.

I plan on a second battery some day and will do the same, power fuse 3 with it ( I think that's the one for the camper equip, etc.). Also I have already run a pair of 8 ga wires front and back for a separate power bus, for power outlets and headlight relays, etc. when I get the second one set up.

On Sun, Dec 12, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Michael Sullivan <sandwichhead@gmail.com>wrote:

> Mine WAS a Dual and I wired it with help of Paul and Mark, I think. I > never had a draw on the starting battery(non-westy). I wired mine to the > ignition switch so when I removed the key, the radio turned off. I have > never had a dead battery and my van sits for a week at a time. > BTW-Added a aux battery under the seat and wired the #3 fuse to that > battery and run all accesories off the aux battery with a 1315 SurePower and > still no dead batteries. BTW-ALso needed help on that. > Just trying to help. > Michael in San Antonio > 91GL Weekender AT 2.1L 'Gringo' > > > > On Sun, Dec 12, 2010 at 6:01 PM, Alan Felder <dieseldoofus@gmail.com>wrote: > >> Mine is a Westy, and the brand of stereo is Dual - and yes, its the same, >> whether or not the faceplate is "in" as long as the switch (ignition or >> separate) is on, there is an inordinant current running through it. >> >> The only improvement in the switch setup is that you don't have to have >> the >> key on "accessory" and hear the buzzer, and use even more juice. There >> doesn't appear to be a solution where you can use the remote and actually >> turn the unit off. It will still draw power and run down your battery. >> So, >> you have to get up and switch it off. >> >> >> On Sun, Dec 12, 2010 at 5:39 PM, Richard A Jones <Jones@colorado.edu> >> wrote: >> >> > Sounds like you have it wired wrong. No car stereo should draw that >> >> much with power off. It should have a "Batt" or "+12 V" connection, >> >> which goes to the always on source. It should also have an "Ignition" >> >> lead, which goes to a source which is switched (usually the key, but >> >> maybe a separate switch). As long as the "Ignition" connection is off, >> >> it should draw no more than about 10-20 mA. >> >> >> > >> > I want my stereo wired so that I can play it without the key--it's >> > a Westy. I put in a new Panasonic a few years ago and found that >> > it draws almost its maximum rated if it is OFF and the face plate >> > in left on. It is running who know what in the display. Pull >> > off the faceplate and consumption drops to almost nothing. >> > >> > Sort of screwed my idea of using the remote from bed to turn it off. >> > Overnight it will draw something like 12-15 amps, so I crawl out >> > of bed to remove the faceplate. >> > >> > It was clearly designed to NOT be wired the way I did. >> > >> > Richard >> > >> >> >> >> -- >> Alan Felder >> Austin TX >> 82 Diesel Westy >> > >

-- Alan Felder Austin TX 82 Diesel Westy


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