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Date:         Wed, 12 Jan 2011 20:19:01 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Strange Vanagon problem in Belize
Comments: To: kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original

hi Ken ... YOU sure should be able to fix this thing !! I was just quoting you about Hall Senders.

I like the theory about pinching the fuel line enough to build up sufficient pressure. You don't have a fuel pressure gauge ???? When I'm deep into weird waterboxer problems, I keep a fuel pressure gauge on it the whole time I'm working on it ..until whatever 'it' or 'they' things are found and corrected.

I also run them off another fuel tank ,, even gas can if I have doubts about fuel supply out of the tank.. that is the only way for sure to determine if a tank is intermittently clogged or restricted. it's easy to do too.

no spare fuel pump ? mandatory to have one. these pumps last amazingly well.....150K miles even, more than that ever..and they are running every second the engine is ..just amazing...but a new or known good one has to be part of the parts and testing kit, in my world.

the fuel itself... all kinds of professional and supposedly genius shops don't think of the fuel itself sometimes, in my expereince. the fuel itself always has to be considered.

re flooding.. I had a werid one ...2.1 wbxr ...the idle would just take off by itself, to over 2K rpm. Then I shut it off. Then It won't restart. when if finally did it started like it was flooded. on that one I found the very typical not-making-contact throttle switch and too advanced timing .. and .....somehow with it flooding when warm .. I just 'knew' temp sensor II was screwing up warm. It ohm checked fine cold. when it wouldn't start warm ... due to flooding, I figured it would start cold..and it did. Temp sensor II ..I think they come in two grades...made in you know where for about 6 bucks.. and good german OE type... in any case, a new temp sensor II was part of the fix on that van. and the fix 'stuck' too ....new vanaon owner, not too savvy a car guy , auto trans ..wouldn't have surprised me if it took a little 'technique' to keep it running happily,. as oppossed to being idiot proff like they are supposed to be ..but I heard that the van was doing just great ...two adjustmens and one small part. if I check half a dozen used temp sensors ...they vary up to 15 % in resistance readings .. some work better than others, used that is.

I keep an entire independent 'fuel system' for troubleshooting .. independent of the entire vanagon ...just a fuel pump, can, pressure regulator and tank or gas can. ( the vaccum line is connected properly , right ? and it responds correctly to having the vac line disconnencted ? I would not dream of working on fuel system without a pressure gauge. and I like to see the injector spray pattern too. I have gone through 15 used wbxr injectors to find 4 with a nice sweet spray pattern. and plugs.. if a person does not actually watch the plug fire across the electrodes .. you don't know for sure that it is. I have seen many leak tiny sparkss from porceline to plug body ...which can't work of course. I've seen plug wires be 'it' in the end a few times. There are various low tech tricks to check those. I should have all this in a manual on waterboxer troubleshooting and diagnosis.

Had one van that would 'try' to rev out ..you could hear a deep moan with the throttle opened .. like it was getting the air , but not the fuel to go with it. that one turned out to be about 8 or 10 very tiny intake leaks ....all around the intake runners, the plenum, the throttle body. I have seen many intake manifold gaskets where the runners bolt to the heads installed backwards. I do at least as much checking on previous work as I do on 'new' troubleshooting . The odds of previous work being weak or faulty are quite high actually, in my expereince.

sure ..pull valve covers and check rocker arm screw adjustment .. check for bent push rods, etc. Check compression.

I havn't heard you say anything about throttle switch .. 'most' 2.1 waterboxer engines that don't get frequent intelligent competent service have non working throttle switches....even vans that have had many many dollars in parts thrown at them. Seriously.

you also need to always consider glogged or restricted cat or muffler .. that can look just like 'not getting fuel.'

if you are sure it's flooded....that is what to work on of course. the main reasons for that to me would be ... fuel pressure too high ...faulty ( new ) injectors ...rebuilt right ? ... I don't trust those that much myself.. and defenitely not until I SEE them spraying properly. btw..to test injector spray pattern .. I just take another distributor ...connect it to the harness, turn on the key .. and turn the dist with my fingers ... when you hear the fuel pump go each time you turn the dist a little... you know that circuit is working .. when you see the injectors , or NOID light fire .......that's a nice sign. Can't go anywhwere with a simple NOID light in my opinion.

for flooding ....thoughts are ....an input to the ecu ...temp sensor ..throttle sw, timing ....AFM and the temp sensor there ... and you are the one that warned about shorted out 02 sensor coax I believe. That could really mess things up I imagine ..though I've never seen it..but I've seen some repaired harnesses for that issue. I was just recommending a guy today to get a fuel pressure gauge. As far as I'm concerned, without one you are just 'hoping' fuel pressure is right. it's not that expensive a tool , and very useful. I've had vans that ran fine ...'until' ..fuel pressure messed up ....whether from intermittant pump or whatever. when it stumbles...if it's fuel pressure ..you can't really tell by the 'seat of your pants' .. fuel pressure gauge is very important.

as always .. two things .. one 'it's just a blockage or leakage of fluids or electrons ' ( fluids include gases and vacuum )

and ...'don't think component' ...think ....'examine, test, and diagnose.' ( I use a lot of 'substitue and bypass' as a strategy too )

I'd say upwards of 3/4 of what I fix on not running right waterboxers involves cleaning and adjusting, and not that many parts per se.

let us know what you find ! stay safe ! scott www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Wilford" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:42 PM Subject: Strange Vanagon problem in Belize

So we made it down to Belize fine yesterday and I went straight to work on the customer's 87 Wolfsburg. The wiring harness was a mess since the last several mechanics thought it was the source of the problems with the van, and they had hacked and spliced it pretty much to death. I had a brand new harness that I brought with me and so in about 45 mins I had it installed and thought this would fix the van. However, the van still will not start. It will crank over and try to fire but it almost seems super flooded to me. You can smell gas, the fuel pump is coming on. I installed a known good AFM I brought with me. Nothing. I installed a known good distributor and ECU and still nothing. Then I checked the readings of the temp II with my digitool and it seemed in the good range. The van has all new injectors and I put new plugs wires on, and cap and rotor. It does do something strange which may help diagnose it. If you pinch the fuel return hose after the fuel pressure regulator with a pair of pliers the van will start but it runs bad and idles really high. I installed a new fuel pressure regulator but that didn't do anything either. I am thinking that maybe the fuel pump isn't delivering enough volume to the engine and pinching the return line after the regulator is helping pressure build up enough for the van to run, but that is just a thought. The engine is a brand new rebuild, however it is a GEX (which I didn't know about until I got down here and saw the paperwork). My only other thought is that there is some type of valve issue, but that doesn't explain the motor starting when you pinch the return line. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. This van has been to three or four mechanics down here and they have replaced a bunch of parts on it, trying to get it to work. I think I am the last chance it has of getting revived.

I will post pictures of our trip and then send a link to the list. It is very nice down here, temps in the 80s during the day and dipping down into the upper 60s at night.

Thanks in advance for any advice or thoughts you can give,

Sincerely, Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com


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