Date:         Thu, 3 Feb 2011 23:12:59 -0600
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: caliper pics
Comments: To: Mike <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <DA2697578E5A4B2F8BC3AC1191B73C03@Mikelaptop1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

  In such cases, I like to use Marvel's Mystery Oil - the real stuff -
not that oil/fuel additive stuff.

John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com


On 2/3/2011 6:00 PM, Mike wrote:
> A recommendation;  when you know you're planning to remove possibly
> rusty/stuck fasteners; spray well in advance ( a few times if you have
> time)
> with PBlaster or WD-40 on all the spots that you'll be removing.
>  Soak time to allow penetrant to work it's magic helps a lot.  Heating
> helps, too.  (you could apply some heat to the bleeder, but not the
> caliper.)
>  Also, you don't have to drill out a bleeder, just leave it broken off in
> there and bleed on the other one or the attachment to the flexline, if
> there's no other way.  You're just buying time at that point and
> trying to
> make the best of a bad situation.  I've been able to bleed air out
> this way,
> enough to get a solid pedal.
>
> YMMV,
>
> Mike B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alistair Bell
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 6:13 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: caliper pics
>
> posted a couple of pics of my brake caliper fiasco here:
>
> http://shufti.wordpress.com/2011/02/03/bleeding-failure/
>
> I hope it serves as a warning to others :)
>
> btw, I have to say again, I did not apply very much force at all on
> the bleeder to make it break. It was short wrench and I was on my side
> under the van, awkward position, not a pose where you can really get
> some oomph behind the wrench.
>
> alistair
>
>