Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2011 14:01:59 -0600
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Subject: Re: How to get spare tire out??? Urgent!
In-Reply-To: <399084.19010.qm@web33607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Regardless of whether the tire is rotted or not, you need to get in
the clamshell compartment and if the bolt has been rounded off to the
point of even a 6 point socket not getting the job done, I suggest
going to Sears or another Tool Retailer and getting a set of Reverse
sockets that work like an easy out, except they grab on to the bolt
head and not require the drilling of a hole to insert the easy
out. Irwin calls the set "Bolt Grip" They sell a 5 Piece base
set(394001) that goes up to 5/8" bolt heads and an expansion set that
goes up to 3/4"/19mm. The expansion set is part number 394002. I
paid about $20 for the set I bought last weekend and although most
Irwin stuff is made in China now, at least these were "Made in the
USA of global components." Harbor Freight likely has something
similar if $20 is too expensive for a one time usage. I don't think
I've seen these for sale individually however. I have some of the
Sears Craftsman bolt extractors too and they are high quality, but
only listed as #2, #7, etc. and no specific size on them. Some of
the brands have Hexagonal outers for a wrench or socket to grip, some
have internal square drives for a ratchet to insert, and some have
both. Guess it depends on the application and clearances needed. I
needed a size that my Craftsman set didn't have(likely a "starter set
too) to get a 14mm bolt off the skid plat for the rear differential
on our Legacy wagon. That last bolt was really stuck on there from
rust(but I zapped it with PB Blaster beforehand just in case) and the
Irwin tool got the job done. If you live up north in the salt belt,
you'll be needing a set of these tools until you remove all bolts
eventually and reinstall them with Antisieze compound. I don't like
using high heat on the underside of the car,but I have found that
using the small wire brush attachment to my Dremel tool to clean rust
off exposed threads before applying the rust penetrant solution often
time makes the difference as to how far down the PBB or WD40 will get
in the internal rusty stuff. Rarely do they have threads that you
can simply chuck up a wire wheel to either your angle grinder or
electric drill and gain access. YMMV
BTW, the extractors will more or less destroy your bolt, but IIRC, A
VW 14mm wheel bolt with a 9/16" washer will replace it perfectly
until you can find one at a junkyard or at a swap meet.
Good Luck,
DM&FS
.
At 12:34 PM 3/5/2011, David M wrote:
>Nut looks to be like 19mm but my 19mm socket is a bit loose. Nut is
>very tight has not been removed in over 10 years but I desperately
>need to get my spare tire out and mounted. I tried WD40 but its real
>diffuicult to apply it and so far it refuses to yield and the socket
>continually slips. Anyone got any ideas? Personally, I think the
>whole concept of needing a special tool to access the spare tire is
>a dumb design.
| 
