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Date:         Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:12:46 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Auxilliary batteries
Comments: To: Gilles H Turmel <gilles.turmel@SYMPATICO.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <BLU0-SMTP28CAECCB7BFE0AC8C453F090CD0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"

<html> <body> At 05:47 PM 3/13/2011, Gilles H Turmel wrote:<br> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">To my understanding the gel type battery will only give me higher life expectancy of the battery with the same autonomy as acid type. Is that a good assumption?</blockquote><br> Gilles, try a different word for 'autonomy' or give us the word in French...<br><br> In the mean time - in order to get good life from any battery used for deep-cycle applications, but *most particularly* from AGM and gel type batteries, it is necessary to follow the correct charging regime which is not possible with automotive-type voltage regulators.&nbsp; I would strongly recommend to use either of these types only if you will also use the necessary equipment for charging and for monitoring discharge.&nbsp; It happens that my brother is making an installation of AGM batteries in his boat, and in the course of discussing this with him I collected some charging regimes from various AGM battery manufacturers which I will quote below.&nbsp; Gel batteries will have similar requirements which also can be obtained from the individual manufacturers.<br><br> Yours,<br> David<br><br> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Optima Yellow Top, cyclic application:<br> Cyclic Applications:<br> 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.<br><br> Lifeline AGM, all:<br> The following charging voltages are recommended for maximum battery life for all Lifeline models. <br><br> Charging Phase&nbsp; 12 Volt Battery <br> Bulk/Absorb&nbsp; 14.2v - 14.4v<br> Float 13.20v - 13.40v<br> NOTES:<br> 1. Use midpoint values for most applications. Lower voltages may be suitable for light-duty applications and higher voltages may be suitable for heavy duty applications. <br> 2. For 24 Volt Systems, multiply 12 Volt setting by 2. <br> 3. Charge voltage should be adjusted if battery temperature varies by more than 10°F from 77°F. Consult website for further guidance (<a href="http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/" eudora="autourl"> www.lifelinebatteries.com</a>). <br><br> Conditioning/Equalizing Charge: 15.5 volts for 8 hours <br> Conditioning/equalizing should only be done when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss. If conditioning/equalizing is necessary, first go through the normal charge cycle. Once the battery is as fully charged as possible, start the conditioning/equalizing charge. <br><br> For maximum battery life, a battery must be recharged to 100% capacity. Recharging to less than 100% may result in premature battery failure. Lifeline batteries are not covered under warranty if they are not recharged properly. For more information, please refer to our warranty policy. <br><br> <br> DEKA:<br> The charger must be temperature-compensated to prevent underor<br> overcharging due to ambient temperature changes. (See Charging<br> Voltage vs. Ambient Temperature chart on page 11.)<br><br> Use only “voltage-regulated” or “voltage-limited” chargers.<br> Standard constant current or taper current chargers must not be<br> used. The voltage must fall in the range of the chart on page 11.<br> Almost all applications require temperature sensing and voltage<br> compensation. Beware, many chargers measure the ambient<br> temperature which could be significantly different from the battery’s<br> internal temperature.<br><br> Temp. Charge Float Temp.<br> °F Optimum Maximum Optimum Maximum °C<br> . 120 13.60 13.90 12.80 13.00 . 49<br> 110 – 120 13.80 14.10 12.90 13.20 43 – 49<br> 100 – 110 13.90 14.20 13.00 13.30 38 – 43<br> 90 – 100 14.00 14.30 13.10 13.40 32 – 38<br> 80 – 90 14.10 14.40 13.20 13.50 27 – 32<br> 70 – 80 14.30 14.60 13.40 13.70 21 – 27<br> 60 – 70 14.45 14.75 13.55 13.85 16 – 21<br> 50 – 60 14.60 14.90 13.70 14.00 10 – 16<br> 40 – 50 14.80 15.10 13.90 14.20 4 – 10<br> . 40 15.10 15.40 14.20 14.50 . 4<br><br> MK Batteries:<br> <b>AGM Battery Charging<br> STAGE END CONDITIONS ERROR<br> Bulk Stage I<font size=1>1<br> </b></font>Maintain Current &lt;= 30 A per 100 Ah C<font size=1>20<br> </font>Typically, Constant Current, but Constant<br> Power, or Taper Charge Permitted<br> End when voltage = 2.40 to 2.43 V/cell (20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C)<br> Max time (h) = 1.2 * DoD (Ah) / Avg. Current (A)<br> If Max time is<br> exceeded: STOP<br> <b>Absorption Stage V<font size=1>1<br> </b></font>Maintain Constant Terminal Voltage<br> (Adjusting only for changing battery<br> temperature)<br> Voltage = 2.40 to 2.43 V/cell (20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C)<br> Without the optional accelerated finishing stage,<br> maintain charge until current acceptance drops by<br> less than 0.10 ampere over a 1 hour period<br> Max Time: 12h<br> With optional accelerated finishing stage end<br> when current = I<font size=1>2<br> </font>Max Time: 6h<br> If Max time is<br> exceeded: Goto next<br> stage<br> If Current exceeds<br> 8 A after dropping<br> below 6 A: STOP<br> <b>Optional Accelerated Finishing Stage I<font size=1>2<br> </b></font>Maintain Constant Current:<br> 1 to 2 A per 100 Ah C<font size=1>20<br> </font>Charge for 1 to 4 hours based on Ah accumulated<br> in first two stages:<br> &lt;25% of C<font size=1>20 </font>– 1 hour<br> 25% to 50% of C<font size=1>20 </font>– 2 hours<br> &gt;50% of C<font size=1>20 </font>– 4 hours<br> If Voltage exceeds<br> 2.80 V/cell: Goto<br> next stage<br> <b>Optional Float Stage V<font size=1>2<br> </b></font>Maintain Constant Terminal Voltage<br> (Adjusting only for changing battery<br> temperature)<br> Voltage = 2.25 V / cell (20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C)<br> No time limit<br> This step is generally unneeded if<br> (1) zero load is present when device is not in<br> operation, and (2) device duty cycle does not<br> include periods of non-use exceeding 3 months.<br> To compensate for battery temperature not at 20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C, subtract 0.005 V/cell for each 1<font face="Symbol">°</font>C above 20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C; add<br> 0.005 V/cell for each 1<font face="Symbol">°</font>C under 20<font face="Symbol">°</font>C.<br> Applies to East Penn’s 8A Line product.<br><br> You can find all this stuff better formatted and more complete on each mfrs website.&nbsp; Google agm batteries and one of the top results will be a list of brands.<br><br> My point is that the makers care enough to specify very rigorous charging regimens including continuous battery-temp measurement and bulk/absorption/float charging, either unconditionally or for all cyclic applications.&nbsp; Some (Optima for example) say if you're using it as a starting battery you can hook it to an automotive-type regulator within x voltage limits.&nbsp; Some (Lifeline, for example) do not allow that under any circumstances and will void your warranty if you do it (more correctly, if you don't keep the thing correctly charged they won't honor the warranty; language is above in the Lifeline section).*<br><br> *Incidentally, the one that mentions the harmful qualities of ripple then goes on to describe a test procedure that won't tell you anything about ripple.&nbsp; But every digital voltmeter I've ever used, the AC ranges will reject DC and will be good up to 400 Hz or so, so if you have one with a 2V AC range you can directly measure LF ripple on the charging line.<br><br> It's your call; they're your batteries.&nbsp; But I want to say wake up and smell the coffee - the equation is clear: if you can afford AGM batteries then you can afford the right gear to take care of them.&nbsp; People who say that the three-stage regulators are ridiculously hard to wire up have fallen victim in some way to the &quot;electricity is magic&quot; myth.&nbsp; Slow down, read the manual/hookup diagram a few times until you understand who does what to which.&nbsp; Once you understand what's going on, the physical wiring is no big deal.&nbsp; Off the top of my head, you've got, minimum:<br><br> Temp sensor to battery post (twisted pair)<br> +12 supply from ignition switch<br> Power ground (B-)<br> Current source (or sink) to alternator field<br> +sense to B+ at battery<br> -sense to B- at battery (may be combined with system ground, above)<br> sense input to drop to float voltage if halogen lights are running, since they're intolerant of high voltages.&nbsp; With more and more LED lighting halogens are probably dodos at this point.<br> Analog or digital adjustment for base charge voltage(s) before temp compensation<br> Analog or digital adjustment for absorption charge time, since it's not economically feasible to get the last few watt-hours in given the cost of gasoline.<br><br> Optionally:<br><br> Pushbutton to immediately drop to float until next restart<br> Remote indicators for what mode the regulator is operating in and for error conditions.<br><br> Further fancies:<br> The device may incorporate automatic charge switching between banks, automatic paralleling of banks while charging, automatic solar charge controller, instrumentation, maybe bunch of other things.&nbsp; Each of those things will have its own set of wiring requirements - consider them separately and they won't seem so complicated.<br><br> :)<br> d </blockquote></body> </html>


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