Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (March 2011, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:30:36 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: leaking final drive oil pan (AT)
Comments: To: Edward Maglott <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=response

Hi, yes something like The Right Stuff will work very well there for a gasket, by itself, on very clean dry surfaces.

I don't see where you mention what type of new gasket you put on. A genuine VW gasket is much heavier duty than the original funky cork thing. Fairly expensive gasket from the dealer ...like 26 bucks or so, maybe 30 list if they still supply those.

I use one of those with a generous coating of brush-on Permatex High Tack gasket sealer. on both sides. On the gasket, not on the housing or the pan. . been using that stuff for over 30 years on all kinds of paper type gaskets.. it works ! and I put in on the threads of all bolts that go into differential cases, engine blocks. t-stat housing etc. Sticks 'em nicely and prevents corrosion . and they'll come out just fine years later. Particularly effective on water pump screws and places where corrosion wants to happen, such as it does on water pump screws. .

I think 7 ft lbs is a joke. I'm sure I make mine a tighter than that. see if your pan is flat where the screw holes are. It's very normal to have to flatten those spots again with a small hammer against something.

Scott www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward Maglott" <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 2:42 PM Subject: leaking final drive oil pan (AT)

> Mine started leaking a little bit recently. I tried to tighten the > bolts a little, but they were already very tight. Spec is only 7 > ft/lbs. So I decided to change the oil and replace the > gasket. Yucky job. Cleaned the pan inside and out, and the bolts, > and removed what was left of the old gasket. I noticed the pan did > not look real true on the sealing surface. I put it back and > followed the torquing procedure. 7 ft/lbs, diagonally, repeat after > 5 minutes, twice. Started pumping oil into the pan and when it got > up high enough the thing started leaking. I tried tightening a bit > more but it only helped a little. I took the whole thing off and > caught the gear oil in a clean pan so I could re-use it. Yucky job > again, and more so with a sprinkling of frustration added. Soooo, > now what? It's not like there is pressure in there. Could a liquid > gasket product save me here? Either with or replacing the stock gasket? > > Thanks, > Edward


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.