Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 18:37:01 -0400
Reply-To: Edward Maglott <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Edward Maglott <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: leaking final drive oil pan (AT)
In-Reply-To: <14cf01cbe74e$81baa7f0$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
the gasket has been hanging around my garage for a long time. I
think it was OEM, funny German sounding name, pretty thick and not
cork. Thanks for the advice on the sealer.
At 06:30 PM 3/20/2011, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>Hi,
>yes something like The Right Stuff will work very well there for a
>gasket, by itself, on very clean dry surfaces.
>
>I don't see where you mention what type of new gasket you put on.
>A genuine VW gasket is much heavier duty than the original funky cork thing.
>Fairly expensive gasket from the dealer ...like 26 bucks or so,
>maybe 30 list if they still supply those.
>
>I use one of those with a generous coating of brush-on Permatex High
>Tack gasket sealer. on both sides.
>On the gasket, not on the housing or the pan. .
>been using that stuff for over 30 years on all kinds of paper type gaskets..
>it works !
>and I put in on the threads of all bolts that go into differential
>cases, engine blocks. t-stat housing etc.
>Sticks 'em nicely and prevents corrosion .
>and they'll come out just fine years later.
>Particularly effective on water pump screws and places where
>corrosion wants to happen, such as it does on water pump screws. .
>
>I think 7 ft lbs is a joke.
>I'm sure I make mine a tighter than that.
>see if your pan is flat where the screw holes are.
>It's very normal to have to flatten those spots again with a small
>hammer against something.
>
>Scott
>www.turbovans.com
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward Maglott" <emaglott3@GMAIL.COM>
>To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 2:42 PM
>Subject: leaking final drive oil pan (AT)
>
>
>>Mine started leaking a little bit recently. I tried to tighten the
>>bolts a little, but they were already very tight. Spec is only 7
>>ft/lbs. So I decided to change the oil and replace the
>>gasket. Yucky job. Cleaned the pan inside and out, and the bolts,
>>and removed what was left of the old gasket. I noticed the pan did
>>not look real true on the sealing surface. I put it back and
>>followed the torquing procedure. 7 ft/lbs, diagonally, repeat after
>>5 minutes, twice. Started pumping oil into the pan and when it got
>>up high enough the thing started leaking. I tried tightening a bit
>>more but it only helped a little. I took the whole thing off and
>>caught the gear oil in a clean pan so I could re-use it. Yucky job
>>again, and more so with a sprinkling of frustration added. Soooo,
>>now what? It's not like there is pressure in there. Could a liquid
>>gasket product save me here? Either with or replacing the stock gasket?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Edward
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