Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (March 2011, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Mon, 14 Mar 2011 22:27:01 -0700
Reply-To:     Joe Fernandez <jfride@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Joe Fernandez <jfride@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Auxilliary batteries
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
In-Reply-To:  <4d7edae6.d4aae60a.4002.281d@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

This is all very interesting and well explained. One note- from my admittedly limited work with solar power systems for boats and homes, I've learned that solar panels can be complementary to alternator/charger power generation. Alts can pump in the bulk amps, then solar panels (with the appropriate charge control) do a good job with the absorption and float stages of charging, leading to a happier battery.

Regarding AGM vs. flooded, I currently have both (400 AH AGMs in boat, 400 AH flooded in solar powered home), and both have provided good service. The AGMs have survived submersion in the bilge which may have killed the flooded batteries. Nonetheless, I'll likely use flooded batts (probably Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries) when the AGMs reach the end of their life.

I use non-deep-cycle Costco batts in my Westy, and they work well for my modest electrical demands.

Joe Santa Cruz

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 8:19 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 10:04 PM 3/14/2011, Daryl Christensen wrote: > >> OK…My van charges at about 13.6 to 13.8 or9 max. All the spiffy >> temp/voltage AGM battery chargers I see are 120V AC input.. >> > > Now that I've preached the gospel - and I believe every word of it - you > have to make your own evaluations of first cost vs lifetime cost and so > forth. I will seriously state that for someone who is going to be actually > cycling batteries down on a regular basis (or irregular one, for that > matter), lifetime system cost will be less if you do it right, and you'll > get much better service as well - and the batteries will last many years. > But the up-front costs are quite high. And as the DEKA comparison pointed > out, if you're going to be using them below 32F/0C, use AGM instead of gel. > > Conversely if you want to minimize up-front costs without *unnecessarily* > increasing lifetime costs, stick with flooded-cell batteries. Your lifetime > costs will still be a lot higher, and you'll still get poorer service and > you'll have to replace batteries more frequently, but the flooded-cell > batteries are less expensive and will take the abuse better than the sealed > ones of either type, but especially the gel ones. > > If you want good service and good battery life but want to take the edge > off the costs up front, pay for the three-stage regulator, use flooded-cell > batteries and keep track of your state of charge with a hydrometer if you > can't afford an integrating consumption meter. > > Yours, > David


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.