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Date:         Fri, 27 May 2011 15:56:30 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Torque spec that requires calibrated fingers
Comments: To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <1306505587.30903.58.camel@TheJackUbuntuNetbook>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

When machines are built - like cars, trains, planes, and other mechanical things - they are engineered. Every piece has a specification in terms of materials, strengths, etc, and the assembly of same also has specifications as to torques, pressures, tensions, etc. There are reasons. The minute any one of these is changed, the what-ever is on the road to destruction. As designed - it will hold up - when changed - it will not.

The greatest familiarity I have with this is in the aviation industry. I do not want wing mount bolts on the airplane I'm riding in to have been replaced with bolts that are not to spec - no way. And I do not want those wing bolts tightened by some mechanics calibrated wrist. No way. As the 'Lil Boy sez "When the wing falls off, the pilot ain't gonna park that baby on no cloud!". Now on a car or Vanagon, it's not quite so critical, but the parts in them are also spec'd and if you want it right, and you want it to last, do it by the book. Be sure all fasteners are installed to spec. Of course, by the time we get to work on our 20-something year old vans, many, many things have been changed - many times by shade-tree mechanics - like us. But of course - again - if something fails, there is always the side of the road to park on. So, unlike airplanes (but it does happen) - low spec, poor quality materials and fasteners find their way into the machines. If we are lucky, nothing bad happens, nothing life threatening, even if a part does fail. All that given - it is far better to use the proper quality materials meeting the proper quality standards, and the properly specified forces applied to hold it all together.

So, if a torque value is given, use it. And apply it with a good, accurate torque wrench. Even screws will have a torque value. Use the correct torque wrench. There are many different kinds, made for different applications - but it is all about getting the right pressures on materials so things hold together and don't fail.

One of the scariest things I ever saw what an aircraft engine on which the cylinder hold down studs had not been torqued properly. Pilot came in complaing about and oil leak on the upper part of a radial engine. On inspection it was discovered that several of the cylinger flange stud were broken off. That was really something! On that particular engine thos studs were the size of my thumb. Investigation determined that because of the awkwardness of getting at some of the studs to tighten the nuts - the calibrated wrist had been used!! The result was near failure of the cylinder - which would have cause massive engine failure and possible loss of the airplane and all aboard. So if there is a factory spec, or a standard spec for bolts, nuts, screws, etc. Use it.

Now all that said - if there is something that isn't going to be a safety issue - shop practice was always tighten nuts and bolts finger tight plus one quarter turn. Never saw that cause a failure. But if no factory spec was present, and there was any question at all - then the 'ol pocket ref standards book was pulled out, and the specs on the hardware looked up.

Just my $.02.

John

John Rodgers Clayartist and Moldmaker 88'GL VW Bus Driver Chelsea, AL Http://www.moldhaus.com

On 5/27/2011 9:13 AM, Rocket J Squirrel wrote: > tencentlife's adapter kit for connecting a adapter which allows a fellow > to mount a oil pressure gauge sender alongside the stock oil pressure > warning light sender has this to say about torquing: > > "Torque recommendations are meant as relative guides, it will not > generally possible to actually use a torque wrench on the fittings in > this installation." > > "...Tighten the fitting carefully, it has a taper thread so it will seal > into the case hole with moderate torque, generally less than 8-10ft.lb." > > and > > "The compression fittings should attain a good seal with only > 10-12ft.lb. of torque, so don't overdo it." > > I'm assuming that some of yinz have fingers calibrated after many years > of experience. Is there any wisdom that can be shared here? > > -- RJS > >


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