Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 10:28:06 -0700
Reply-To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Yeppers -- failed oil pressure switch alright.
In-Reply-To: <4de2720f.e764e60a.6a67.48d2@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
My FLAPS have a replacement oil pressure switch. It is a BWD S4026.
Website says compatible with: "Vanagon Campmobile, H4 - 1.9L vin B
1915cc type DH - MFI GAS OHV"
I can't find any more information about this part.
There appears to be a mention of this switch, according to Google, at
<http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/oil-pressure-probs/index.htm> but
vanagon.com is taking ages to load. Down?
I'm going to assume it fits. The threads look the same. If it doesn't
work I'm no worse off than I am now unless it needs more than 0.3 bar to
shut off the oil pressure lamp, then I'll be confused.
On Sun, 2011-05-29 at 12:18 -0400, David Beierl wrote:
> At 12:01 PM 5/29/2011, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
> >(1981.9L) Got the tin off the bottom of the left head. Three 13mm and
> >one 12mm? Who designs such things?
>
> Sounds like someone put a Japanese bolt in there. J.I.S. bolts have
> a 12mm head where M-series have 13.
I believe it was the forward inner tin-holding fastener. Goes on the
exhast manifold flange. It's a skirted nut that takes a 12mm wrench. Not
much clearance there, I don't know if a 13mm head would fit.
The other fasteners are 13mm-headed bolts. Oh well.
>
>
> >The switch reads open to frame with the engine off, so it's a goner.
> >Found the fossilized remains of what appears to be an ancient
> >Pre-Columbian rubber boot on the switch. After than crumbled off, the
> >the brass push-on connectors had nice green verdigris.
>
> Because of the sliding action the terminal is self-cleaning to a
> considerable degree. This is a signal connection so contact
> resistance may not be so critical.
Well, here is my simple 9-step troubleshooting process.
1. Locate the wire that goes to the switch. 2. Read resistance to frame
with engine off (read open). 3. Short wire to frame. 4. Observe dash oil
pressure lamp comes on. 5. Re-connect and confirm that switch does not
turn on lamp with no oil pressure. 5. Sigh. 6. Clamber underneath and
remove tin. 7. Inspect switch, looks ancient. 8. Re-check continuity
from tab on switch to frame. Still reads open. 9. Press really hard to
make sure I'm cutting through corrosion and build-up on tab. Same
result.
I think this is pretty conclusive.
-- RJS