Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 14:50:23 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Yeppers -- failed oil pressure switch alright.
In-Reply-To: <1306690086.9085.112.camel@TheJackUbuntuNetbook>
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Over the years I have learned to avoid these almost universal replacements. Get the correct one.
BTDT too many times. Wrong threads, (taper not straight), wrong pressure, short life, special sockets, (not hex). Seen it all.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Rocket J Squirrel
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 1:28 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Yeppers -- failed oil pressure switch alright.
My FLAPS have a replacement oil pressure switch. It is a BWD S4026.
Website says compatible with: "Vanagon Campmobile, H4 - 1.9L vin B 1915cc type DH - MFI GAS OHV"
I can't find any more information about this part.
There appears to be a mention of this switch, according to Google, at <http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/oil-pressure-probs/index.htm> but vanagon.com is taking ages to load. Down?
I'm going to assume it fits. The threads look the same. If it doesn't work I'm no worse off than I am now unless it needs more than 0.3 bar to shut off the oil pressure lamp, then I'll be confused.
On Sun, 2011-05-29 at 12:18 -0400, David Beierl wrote:
> At 12:01 PM 5/29/2011, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
> >(1981.9L) Got the tin off the bottom of the left head. Three 13mm and
> >one 12mm? Who designs such things?
>
> Sounds like someone put a Japanese bolt in there. J.I.S. bolts have a
> 12mm head where M-series have 13.
I believe it was the forward inner tin-holding fastener. Goes on the exhast manifold flange. It's a skirted nut that takes a 12mm wrench. Not much clearance there, I don't know if a 13mm head would fit.
The other fasteners are 13mm-headed bolts. Oh well.
>
>
> >The switch reads open to frame with the engine off, so it's a goner.
> >Found the fossilized remains of what appears to be an ancient
> >Pre-Columbian rubber boot on the switch. After than crumbled off, the
> >the brass push-on connectors had nice green verdigris.
>
> Because of the sliding action the terminal is self-cleaning to a
> considerable degree. This is a signal connection so contact
> resistance may not be so critical.
Well, here is my simple 9-step troubleshooting process.
1. Locate the wire that goes to the switch. 2. Read resistance to frame with engine off (read open). 3. Short wire to frame. 4. Observe dash oil pressure lamp comes on. 5. Re-connect and confirm that switch does not turn on lamp with no oil pressure. 5. Sigh. 6. Clamber underneath and remove tin. 7. Inspect switch, looks ancient. 8. Re-check continuity from tab on switch to frame. Still reads open. 9. Press really hard to make sure I'm cutting through corrosion and build-up on tab. Same result.
I think this is pretty conclusive.
-- RJS
