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Date:         Thu, 2 Jun 2011 09:26:03 -0400
Reply-To:     Chris S <szpejankowski@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Chris S <szpejankowski@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Brake Noises
Comments: To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <03f201cc20ec$ba008a30$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I advise against turning rotors when replacing pads, unless there's a problem with the rotors. Even then it is usually only marginally more expensive to replace them. Rotors need to be as thick as possible to handle thermal loading. The rotor surface needs to b cleaned instead.

Chris.

Wysłane z iPhone'a

Dnia Jun 2, 2011 o godz. 2:17 Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> napisał(a):

> The later style brake caliper starting in 86 is easy to change pads on. > it's a single piston type that slides on guide pins. > All you basically have to do is remove bolts in the guide pins ( a thin 17

> mm wrench is needed ) and lift the caliper off. > remove old pads. > push the piston back with a C clamp or giant pliers.. > it is better to open the bleed valve during this process, and attach a hose > to it, rather than push the old fluid back up to the master cylinder. > > the pads should have 'disc brake quiet' sprayed on the back of them. > the disc/rotor has to be fairly decent of course. > at least check wheel bearing play while the caliper is off. Address that if > necessary. > and always ... > always change the brake fluid to any brake you work on. > at least in my world. Not changing brake fluid with new pads is just silly > to me. > > oh..one more thing.. > I normally use PBR brand Deluxe pads. Used to be called Repco ...from > austrualia. > I have installed hundreds of Repco Deluxe pads with good results, Now called > PBR. > And .. > I get better brake action out of PBR 'low metalic pads.' > They don't eat up the rotors in my experience.. > but then my brake pads never wear out either. > And they do give better stopping power ..for a low tech low cost minor > improvement over standard pads. > > I also like to put a tiny, tiny bit of copper anti-seize compound on the > edges of the pads where they slide . > and ...guide pins ...the caliper has to slide smoothly on the guide pins. > That's very important, imperative even. > > it's a good job to focus on details on. Anyone can just slam-dunk pads in

> front disc brakes.. > but do it carefully ..and the various minor details attended to, and it'll

> be just fine. > > one warning about doing 'pads only' . > the real repair is pads and turn the rotors, or pads and new rotors. > If you do put pads on good used rotors... > and there is some problem shortly after....like noise, pedal pulsation etc.. > you must replace those pads even though they are brand new.. > and turn the rotors or replace them, and install new pads. > Often 'pads only' can be a successful job though. > > scott > www.turbovans.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "neil n" <musomuso@GMAIL.COM> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2011 10:34 PM > Subject: Re: Brake Noises > > > You're welcome. > > The older style brakes I show are different than yours. Figured the > pics would shed some light though. > > Bentley is your friend. ;) > > Neil. > > > > On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 8:36 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com> > wrote: >> Hey Neil, >> Thanks for the reply, I have an 88 I am not sure that ATE or Girling front >> brakes. >> Thanks for the tips! >> I am heading out to the Mountainjam music festival at Hunter Mt. NY >> tomorrow >> and I will address the brakes when I get back. >> Thanks again! >> Rob >> On Jun 1, 2011, at 2:04 PM, neil n wrote: >> >> If the drums aren't stuck, not hard to remove and inspect. (11mm >> head bolts may be present on each drum) >> >> My first thought is shoe(s) down to metal rubbing on drum. OR.... >> broken spring dragging on drum. >> >> This stuff should be in the archives. Off the top of my head, Ken >> Wilford's rear shoe/hardware replacement "how to" springs to mind. >> >> If all else ok, fronts should be plug and play. Archives for that too. >> :) >> >> Here's my page on front calipers pads etc. but for the OLDER style >> brakes. Should provide some insight: >> >> http://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/frontcaliperspads >> >> >> >> Neil. >> >> On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com> >> wrote: >> >> Hello Everyone, >> >> For last week I have been hearing this sound that sounds like a high pitch >> metal rubbing once in a while. I think it's coming from the rear brake on

>> the passenger side. >> >> Once in a while I hear it, not all the time. Could it be the rear drum is

>> rubbing against the inner pad? >> >> How should I resolve this? I thought the rear brakes were self adjusting?

>> >> Second question, is there any good step by step instructions with photos >> or >> a video of the process of replacing your front brake pads on non-syncro >> van? >> I have never done it before and want to do it right instead of spending >> $75 >> dollars at a mechanics. >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Robert >> >> NY >> >> 88 Wolfsburg Automatic >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" >> >> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/ >> >> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines >> >> > > > > -- > Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" > > http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/ > > http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines


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