Date:         Sun, 3 Jul 2011 17:20:22 -0700
Reply-To:     John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Organization: UCSB
Subject:      Re: Top Ball Joint replacement
In-Reply-To:  <E929CC9F-AD24-439D-85A0-787662EBF267@shaw.ca>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

I succeeded in getting both of the top ball joints off without too much
problem, the pickle fork and a good #3 hammer being the *key to popping
the joint's taper free from the control arm.

I guess the best news is that this DID get rid of the rattling noise
that I was hearing up front, especially over bumpy roads.

It feels good to have invested $70 into some tools and done it myself  (
and got it right) as opposed to having paid someone, which with the
options available in my town are too often expensive and disappointing.

Thanks again for all the good advice, and sound encouragement offered by
those experienced ball joint removers!

-john

On 7/2/11 11:25 AM, Alistair Bell wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I don't know why my ball joint was so stubborn. No rust under there,
> maybe it was just the vanagon gods throwing a curve ball. The socket
> head (allen) bolts came out of mine with no trouble at all.
>
> I noticed the clunk, not deep pitched noise but not tinny either,
> going over smallish potholes in our gravel/dirt driveway. I also could
> see the joint move when I levered the joint with a pry bar (did i show
> a pic of that on my blog post?). I made the determination based on
> those 2 things and I was right :)
>
> Might be a good thing to try and move/pry other susp. components down
> there. Those big threaded rods that run forward from lower arm to the
> body for example, see if those move. Oh and perhaps the sway bar drop
> links?
>
> good luck
>
> ab
>
>
>
> On 2-Jul-11, at 10:59 AM, John Goubeaux wrote:
>
>> Thanks again Alistair, Looks like all the bolts, except for one of
>> the allen heads are going to be cooperative. I can see that a lot
>> depends on the corrosion factor and as this is a "West Coast" van
>> looks like things are in my favor.
>>
>>
>> I had a question:  You mentioned on the web page you posted the link
>> for that the noise you were getting , prior to the BJ replace was
>> "slight knocking/clicking intermittent noise from front right of
>> van".  Was this a rattling noise, like something was loose as opposed
>> to a clunk ?
>>
>>  B/C it is often hard to pinpoint noises I am trying to in fact
>> narrow the noise I am getting down. It is a rattling/knocking noise
>> that is more significant over a bumpy road AND after lots of
>> inspection I cannot attribute it to anything obvious BUT the top ball
>> joints are worn and loose and this seems like the culprit. I have not
>> been able to reproduce it with the car stationary though.
>>
>> -john
>>
>> On 6/27/11 6:57 PM, Alistair Bell wrote:
>>>
>>> I think my experience is unusual. An airhammer applied to the bottom
>>> of the joint, the treaded end, is supposedly the ticket to making
>>> them pop.
>>>
>>> The lowers are a big big press job, in and out.
>>>
>>> good luck
>>>
>>> alistair
>>>
>>>
>>> On 27-Jun-11, at 4:46 PM, John Goubeaux wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks! I will have a look, and yes there are never absolutes with
>>>> these 20 yr+ old cars. It is though I am told, a lot easier than
>>>> the lowers.
>>>>
>>>> -john
>>>
>