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Date:         Tue, 16 Aug 2011 19:33:12 -0500
Reply-To:     mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: Bottom-filling water tank
Comments: To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <4E4AF5DE.3000407@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

---- Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > So I've tried the following methods of filling the water tank: > > 1. The standard method: the fresh water inlet on the side. I made my own > fill hose using a limp 3/8'' i.d. food grade hose (don't ask, don't > remember, many years ago, McMaster.com) inserted far enough down the > throat of the filler tube to stay put when water turned on, but not > always, would sometimes pop out and turn into a noodle squirting all > over the place. Kind of a slow fill, cooled heels during process.

Very slow for me. Gave up on this method.

> > 2. The rebel's method: through the top of the tank. Kind of a hassle for > me to empty the compartment, find the phillips driver, unscrew one of > the screws, slide the cover over, watch the screw fall into the opening, > remove the tank top, drag the hose into cabin, stick the hose into the > tank, walk to the faucet, and turn on the water. Last time I did it the > hose shot right out of the tank and water-noodled all over the place, > fountaining water throughout the cabin. There is a fool operating this > equipment so a higher degree of fool-proofage was needed. Also desirable > would be fewer steps. With fewer screws to drop into the water tank > compartment.

Since I used a valve on the end of the hose, and never left it unattended, I did not have the wild hose problem. However, more than one time a screw has ended up IN the water tank. Also, one has to be really careful to keep from splattering some water around. > > Now a new method (for me): > > 3. Because I wanted to be able to connect a bit of garden hose to the > bottom of the tank for filling a bucket to make sure my fire is out, > dead out! at the end of the trip without fumbling around trying to get > the cap back on when the bucket is full, I replaced the stock tank drain > cap with a new fitting Frankensteined out of a bunch of plumbing parts: > a 1-3/8'' PVC fitting -- needs a bunch of PTFE tape but it fits tightly > enough to not drip -- a 3/4'' NPT elbow which faces forward into a ball > valve and finally terminated in a female hose thread. It doesn't dangle > down very far so it seem not at risk for being knocked off. The valve is > easier to turn on and off compared to unscrewing and re-screwing the > stock cap, while kneeling in dirt rapidly turning into mud while fumbling. > > This morning I thought to connect the fitting to a drinking water-grade > hose and then to my house's hose bib, using a female-to-female hose > thread adapter. Turn on the hose bib, open the ball valve and the tank > fills in about 60 seconds. Me likee. No noodlage.

sounds great. However, how do you know when the tank is getting full, unless you have the tank top off (see all the attendant inconveniences above)? And, isn't there back pressure (again, unless you have the tank top off). Oh, for that, just open the freshwater fill inlet on the side. Allows venting. do you just let 'er run until water runs out the inlet? Seems a reasonable thing to do, now that I consider all of the situation.

I will try this.

mcneely


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