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Date:         Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:24:51 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Timing belt replacement and valve timing in VW gas and Diesel
              engines
Comments: To: Poppie Jagersand <poppie.jagersand@YAHOO.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <1314050731.1088.YahooMailNeo@web45307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Your correct on the theory. The distance between the crankshaft and cam shaft can vary due to head and block deck heights and head gasket thickness. If only the belt is being changed you can get away with marking carefully, locking things and lining the new belt where the old one was on the non tensioner side. Using a wrench turn the engine over multiple times by hand before trying to start to make sure nothing crashes.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Poppie Jagersand Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 6:06 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Timing belt replacement and valve timing in VW gas and Diesel engines

When replacing the timing belt in a Diesel, the VW instructions say to (first to lock everything up) then *loosen the camshaft nut* (Then put new timing belt, tension, tighten camshaft nut etc).  This camshaft nut re-setting seems to be for precisely setting the camshaft angle at TDC. (or is there another reason?)

If I remember right (and I may be wrong - it is a long time since), for the similar 70's and 80's 4cyl gas engines instructions were basically lock up cam, replace timing timing belt. No camshaft nut loosening and re-setting of cam timing.

Any reason a Diesel would be more sensitive to (very small variations in) cam timing? Anyone skipping the camshaft nut part?

Martin (and '82 Westy "Poppie")


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