Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 11:47:07 -0700
Reply-To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator lighting
In-Reply-To: <27F83197-9DCA-41F5-873C-7FCE42500EA0@onebeam.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
A large & blue stove flame should indicate that there's enough LP
pressure and supply for the fridge to stay lit.
The manometer is not too hard to make. There's info in the archives or
easy to find info online. Maybe take van to sea level to adjust
regulator?
There's several reasons the Dometic 182 may not stay lit. A link to a
pdf of the Dometic 182B service manual is on my page here:
http://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/vanagonmaintenanceandrepair
David Beierl posted a link to what may be another version of the
manual. Possibly for the 182A. Seems you may have the 182B as you
mention LED. Frank Condelli website likely has the manual too and
certainly has lots of other info.
Your intake or exhaust pipes may be partially blocked. If you remove
the outer portion of flue assembly you can vacuum out these pipes.
Maybe attach a flexible plastic pipe to vacuum and work your way down
the pipes. Theses pipes make a ~ 90* bend fairly soon after opening.
One job every owner has to do or have done at some point; remove the
fridge and service it. (clean combustion box etc.). I found that
cutting a notch in wood above the exhaust/intake pipes made fitting
fridge back in easier.
you can see the wood in question (paper torn) in this pic, notch not yet cut:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-apvUNcetwec/SnOJySyOFaI/AAAAAAAADrk/teyWdHiwKX0/s720/TempsRearDometic.jpg
The notch also helps keep the pipes from getting bent out of position
when installing fridge. Most newbs (like me) tend to wrestle the
fridge in. When fridge re installed check that manifold sits properly
at the gasket before installing remainder of flue parts. A good seal
at this juncture is crucial for fridge to stay lit should you choose
to drive with fridge running on LP
Pic:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-safEblifyvU/THIPdiZ80NI/AAAAAAAADrk/UMAW4xkAQHM/s720/DometicFlueGap1.jpg
There can be a temptation to use the two manifold screws to pull a
poorly aligned manifold into place. Bad idea. Those screws thread into
aluminum and can be easily cross threaded if manifold grossly out of
alignment. A wood dowel can be used to tweak the manifold so it lines
up. You want 12-6, 3-9 o clock correct and up-down position of screw
holes to "sit" in alignment to flue parts.
In terms of debris in the burner box, I used to think it was an old
wives tale that spiders and such were somehow attracted to the smell
of LP or whatever in the burner box. Regardless of why they end up
there, it's NOT an old wives tale! Bugs do like to reside in there.
e.g. if fridge not used for a long time, bugs will get in there and
set up camp. Other debris like rust can end up in there too. pic:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_EBmInbpCf8/SpiutFLniDI/AAAAAAAADrk/VeKWClreqAI/Combustion%252520Chamber%2525202%252520.jpg
Neil.
On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 7:39 AM, Leonard Sitongia <sitongia@onebeam.net> wrote:
> I know this sort of think is a FAQ, and I've spent some hours researching, but haven't found the solution...
>
> My fridge was lighting well, but it seemed that only half of the fins inside would cool, so it was not working well. Wouldn't cool well on electric, either. Brought it in to the local RV shop. They pulled it, did a full cleaning, and returned it to me. I put it on 110v and it cooled off well. On a road trip, the fridge would not light. Brought it back to the shop, and they had a hard time figuring out the cause. Concluded the regulator pressure was off, adjusted it, and gave it back to me. Doesn't light.
>
> There's spark, although it now seems to be intermittent.
>
> Sometimes there's a big pop as a bunch of gas ignites. Postings describe this as a air supply problem. I've tried supplementing by blowing in the condensation drain pipe and using an air pump. That gives me a pop or apparent ignition that doesn't keep going.
>
> So, I messed around with the adjustment of the regulator, with the "dial" under the plastic cap. I've gotten it to the point that flame will stay light while I hold the bypass (button next to the right of the plunger/igniter). But, the flame is very weak, and will go out in less than a minute when I release the bypass. The LED on the panel barely lights up.
>
> Do you think all of this is due to a faulty regulator?
>
> By the way, the regulator, which I got from one of the Westy supply shops, is a Marshall 605H. It has the vent facing forward instead of down. They say that's not a problem. I know it's not involved in this, at least not directly, but I wanted to mention it.
>
> Another question: the stove flames are good. There's a separate supply hose for that, right? The stove flame quality doesn't imply that the fridge flame quality will be good, right? The fridge line could be blocked while the stove line is clear?
>
> Also, I'm going to make a manometer. I haven't seen mention that the setting is dependent on air pressure. I'm at 6,000' elevation. Does this cancel out in the equation regarding the pressure of the gas? In other words, the pressure is lower to achieve 11" of water, but it doesn't matter because less pressure is needed to operate the fridge. Or, should one correct for altitude?
>
> Thanks so much for your help!
>
> ==Leonard E. Sitongia
> One Inextricable Beam
> http://www.onebeam.net/
>
--
Neil n
65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
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http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
