Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 15:14:42 -0700
Reply-To: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator lighting
In-Reply-To: <1F58C1D5-E765-453F-9926-D3A1C3FCBB2F@shaw.ca>
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Yes. I plan on installing a FC on my Dometic ASAP. Just can't imagine
what kind of inverter it will take to run it. <kidding> ;)
Getting back to the OP's concern, I bet if he were to clean the intake
and exhaust pipe the fridge might light easier and stay lit.
That's what I'm betting my .02 Cnd. on!
I do, however, suggest that if the fridge hasn't been serviced in a
while, as per Dennis comments on things sealing, I think it would be
wise for the OP to pull the fridge, open the burner box, clean it,
close it up and check for leaks by plugging the exhaust or intake pipe
and pressurizing those parts. I think the combustion box seal
deteriorates over time eventually failing. As have many others, I've
used hi-temp RTV in place of that gasket w/o any issues (aside from my
learning curves)
In terms of the fridge itself, there are several places one can see an
air leak. Especially since you never know what a well meaning PO may
have done wrong:
- combustion box seal
- union 1/2 way up exhaust pipe (on mine there's 2 moon shaped bits
that provide a lip for brass nut to crank on to)
- gasket between burner jet and box
- corrugated pipes at manifold (there's an O ring on each)
- air pump tube
- corrugated pipes (exhaust, intake)
- where corrugated pipes meet the combustion box (gaskets)
I likely missed some but it's a start.
Neil.
Neil.
On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 2:56 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> I'm going to stop posting things for a while.... yes, the 12V is not connected to the tc, the wee thing makes its own juice.
>
> sheesh
>
> I did redo all the connections I could find however, 12V, non 12 V, flux capacitor, all of them.
>
> I do have my flue assembly in order. I had to when I cut the hole in the van to install the fridge in the tin top. I did use sealant on the rubber gasket to body fit, and the rubber gasket was in good shape.
>
> alistair
>
>
>
>
> On 2011-08-31, at 2:47 PM, neil n wrote:
>
>> The tc is not connected to the 12V AFAIK. It is it's own separate
>> circuit; fridge case provides - and tc provides + .
>>
>> But then I ain't no expert! ;)
>>
>> I've read that the flue has a great effect on whether or not the
>> fridge stays lit while driving. This prompted me to inspect and adjust
>> manifold last time fridge was out. (see pic I linked to) AFAIK, the
>> manifold seals to the flue plate and all is assembled correctly. This
>> is why I suspect that if air turbulence is introduced in combustion
>> chamber while driving, it might be enough to "wave" the flame away
>> from the tc thus allowing current to cease its flow and the safety
>> switch is allowed to return to the closed position.
>>
>> That's the standing Far Fetched Theory as of now. I have several others. ;)
>>
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 2:07 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe it is something to do with the tc wiring. I hadn't replaced mine but I did reconnect all the 12V connections.
>>>
>>> The o/n going out problem may be tc related, I bet the going out while driving is flue issues. My fridge stays lit in both cases now.
>>>
>>> alistair
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2011-08-31, at 1:17 PM, neil n wrote:
>>>
>>>> Same here.
>>>>
>>>> On my last trip I was up higher. No problems lighting fridge upon
>>>> arrival to camp and it would stay lit. But since the flame out at
>>>> night hard start in the morning issue, (at least 2 years ago) I've
>>>> changed a few things. One being the thermocouple in the burner box.
>>>> The old one was *really* frayed (worn). The current one, though used,
>>>> is in better shape. I suspect the old one was so worn out, the tip
>>>> wasn't close enough to the flame to keep current flowing through the
>>>> safety switch.
>>>>
>>>> I suspect if I replaced the better thermocouple currently installed,
>>>> the fridge might even stay lit while driving. No biggie though. DC
>>>> mode cools just as well it seems.
>>>>
>>>> Neil.
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 12:31 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have had, in the past, similar prolems. But on recent trip where temps ranged the mid 30's during day and 2 C at night (yes, cold but very dry mornings) and up to 5,000 ft alt. the fridge worked like a champ, staying lit and working very well in those conditions.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can't explain why it is working so well now.. I had cleaned every part of the system a few times over the years, the last time was last summer.
>>>>>
>>>>> alistair
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil n
>>
>> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>>
>> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
>
--
Neil n
65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
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