Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 09:05:10 -0700
Reply-To: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: Headlight Upgrade Eilemma
In-Reply-To: <4E6A3682.1020408@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
John,
here is the list I sent yesterday, does it not make sense to you which terminals have power at what conditions?
alistair
>
> So here is what I think they do, open to corrections:
>
> G1& G3 - X-bus controlled power
> G2& G5 #15, ign. switched power via fuse S18
> G4 - D+ (alternator trigger circuit) via dash alt. led
> G6 - dead end
> G7 - power with headlight on
> G8 - dimmer controlled panel lighting power
> G9 - license plate lights circuit, via fuse S20
> G10 - hot when windscreen washer runs (used for headlight washer)
>
>
> and the M terminals below
>
> M1 - tied to G7
> M2 - power when low beams on
>
>
> This is for my '86 syncro passenger van.
On 2011-09-09, at 8:53 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I note several unused pins on the "G" panel on the fuseblock. What are
> they used for? Might one of these work for my wire. The wire connects
> to the supply side of the relay - or relay pin 87.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John .
>
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>
> On 9/9/2011 9:30 AM, mark drillock wrote:
>> Maybe it already has headlight relays installed?
>>
>> There are 7 P connections. 2 are always used by the base vehicle.
>>
>> That leaves 5 for options/expansion.
>> power windows use 1
>> power locks use 1
>> gas fired heater uses 1 (rare)
>> typical headlight relay kit uses 2
>>
>> Is the other larger .375" P spade available?
>> If so, put a bigger end on your new wire and use it.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> John Rodgers wrote:
>>> I was going to upgrade my headlight circuits with headlight relays to
>>> handle new higher wattage lights. Part of this requires cutting some
>>> wires and these wires are clearly identified in the instructions. When I
>>> went to do this, and removed the steering column cover to better see
>>> what I was doing, I discovered a rat's net of wires where the PO had
>>> done a whole lot of upgrading for himself. There is no way for me to
>>> identify all those wires making the install non-compatible. So, what
>>> to do?
>>>
>>> I decided to use the TJ Hannick approach, using 30 amp relay mounted on
>>> the dash fascia on the left side of the insturment pod and under the
>>> instrument pod cover. Four wires, no cutting, plug and play - Right?
>>> Wrong!!!
>>>
>>> The first three wires to the relay were a snap. But the fourth - the one
>>> that powers the control circuit inside the relay - the fourth one is to
>>> be plugged into the "P" panel on the back side of the fuse block. Once
>>> that last wire is connected - the light would/should work. Well, no
>>> joy!! I dropped the fuse block, only to discover that the "P" panel
>>> looked like a Christmas tree loaded with ornaments. The PO in his
>>> rewiring, had used all 6 output pins and had put extenders on them,
>>> increasing their ability to carry more connectors with wires. But to the
>>> detriment of adding anything else at all!!!
>>>
>>> My question here is - where else can I connect to pull power for getting
>>> the relay to work.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> -- John Rodgers Clayartist and Moldmaker 88'GL VW Bus Driver Chelsea, AL
>>> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>>>
>>
>>
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