Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 17:42:06 -0700
Reply-To: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: Headlight Upgrade Eilemma
In-Reply-To: <4E695807.4090901@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
There is an error in the notes section of this single relay procedure. I
let it slide earlier since it was not directly germane to the issues
that John was dealing with.
The erroneous note says:
"> A high beam relay instalation was planned, but since the high beam
> current path doesn't go through the headlight switch, it really isn't
> necessary."
This is simply false. In stock wiring all of the normal headlight
current goes through the headlight switch, as well as the ignition
switch and hi/lo beam selector switch.
The single relay procedure described actually moves both the high beam
and low beam current off of the headlight switch and ignition switch. It
does not move these off the hi/lo selector switch as this takes 2
relays. This is why the typical relay kit includes 2 relays, so as to
protect all three switches rather than only two of them. The third
switch seldom fails but upgrading the bulbs to brighter ones may
increase such failures and the 2 relay approach is probably wise for
this reason. This single relay approach does protect the 2 most likely
to fail switches of the lighting circuit.
The error with regard to the high beam current route probably arises
from the fact that a second current path exists feeding the hi/lo
selector switch. This second path is active only while the selector
switch is held in the up position by the driver and plays no active role
during either high or low beam operation otherwise.
Mark
John Rodgers wrote:
> Volks, here is a better description of what I am trying to do.
>
> Credit goes to TJ Hannick
>
> Time used a Bosch 30 amp relay. I use a 40 amp because I happened to
> have one.
>
> Removethe connector from the terminal 57 on the back of the light switch.
> This connectror has two wires crimped in it - large white wire and a
> smaller white wire with black stripe.
> Plug this connector into the output pin (pin 30) on the relay.
>
> Make three jumpers as follows:
>
> Two (2) 4" jumpers of 18 gauge wire - .250' female connectors each end.
> #1 jumper - plug one end into pin 57 on the headlight switch - the
> other end into the control terminal pin 85 on the relay..
> #2 jumper - plug one end onto multiple ground connector behind the fuse
> block, and the other end plugs into the relay ground terminal - pin 86.
>
> One (1) 18" or so jumper of 12 gauge wire with a .250" female connector
> on one end and a .250 insulated female connector on the other end.
> Plug the unshielded connector into the supply of the relay - pin 87.
> Plug the insulated connector into one of the "P" terminals on the fuse
> block.
>
> Using double stick tape, mount the relay just forward of the light
> switch on the fascia next to the instrument pod sufficiently far over to
> the side so as to clear the instrument pod cover.
>
> Notes:
>
> VW uses female locking tab connectors. You need to have something to
> release those tabs. I found that a jewelers screwdriver does nicely.
> Everyone has a set in their toolbox - right?
>
> Relay socket vs just the relay. - If you use the relay socket - the VW
> connectors will snap right into it. I prefer the relay socket and made
> up my jumpers using the VW type connector on my jumpers. Makes changing
> the relay a snap. If you use use the relay alone - then you will need to
> use the insulated connectors.
>
> The wiring path is stock from the relay to the headlights. A measured
> 0.1 volt drop between the output side of the relay and the low beam
> fuses (24 & 25), so the dimmer switch was left in the main current path.
>
> Total cost thus far - relay, socket and locking spade
> terminals(connectors) - about $6 bucks.
>
> A high beam relay instalation was planned, but since the high beam
> current path doesn't go through the headlight switch, it really isn't
> necessary.
>
> Final note -
>
> With Hella Driving lights - the fused relay for them was placed next to
> the headlight relay. The headlight switch output controls the lights so
> they will turn off with the headlights when the ignition is switched
> of. A three position VW fog light switch is wired to also allow
> independent operation of the driving lights and is placed in the blocked
> out opening above the rear window defrost switch.
>
> Please credit the above description to TJ Hannink.
>
> ******************************************
>
>
