Date:         Thu, 8 Sep 2011 19:04:23 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Headlight Upgrade Eilemma
In-Reply-To:  <4E692BFF.4050607@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Volks, here is a better description of what I am trying to do.

Credit goes to TJ Hannick

Time used a Bosch 30 amp relay. I use a 40 amp because I happened to
have one.

Removethe connector from the terminal 57 on the back of the light switch.
This connectror has two wires crimped in it - large white wire and a
smaller white wire with black stripe.
Plug this connector into the output pin (pin 30)  on the relay.

Make three jumpers as follows:

Two (2)  4" jumpers of 18 gauge wire - .250' female connectors each end.
#1 jumper -   plug one end into pin 57 on the headlight switch - the
other end into the control terminal pin 85 on the relay..
#2 jumper - plug one end onto multiple ground connector behind the fuse
block, and the other end plugs into the relay ground terminal - pin 86.

One (1)  18" or so jumper of 12 gauge wire with a .250" female connector
on one end and a .250 insulated female connector on the other end.
Plug the unshielded connector into the supply of the relay - pin 87.
Plug the insulated connector into one of the "P" terminals on the fuse
block.

Using double stick tape, mount the relay just forward of the light
switch on the fascia next to the instrument pod sufficiently far over to
the side so as to clear the instrument pod cover.

Notes:

VW uses female locking tab connectors. You need to have something to
release those tabs. I found that a jewelers screwdriver does nicely.
Everyone has a set in their toolbox - right?

Relay socket vs just the relay. - If you use the relay socket - the VW
connectors will snap right into it. I prefer the relay socket and made
up my jumpers using the VW type connector on  my jumpers. Makes changing
the relay a snap. If you use use the relay alone - then you will need to
use the insulated connectors.

The wiring path is stock from the relay to the headlights. A measured
0.1 volt drop between the output side of the relay and the low beam
fuses (24 & 25), so the dimmer switch was left in the main current path.

Total cost thus far - relay, socket and locking spade
terminals(connectors)  - about $6 bucks.

A high beam relay instalation was planned, but since the high beam
current path doesn't go through the headlight switch, it really isn't
necessary.

Final note -

With Hella Driving lights - the fused relay for them was placed next to
the headlight relay. The headlight switch output controls the lights so
they will turn off with the headlights when the ignition is switched
of.  A three position VW fog light switch is wired to also allow
independent operation of the driving lights and is placed in the blocked
out opening above the rear window defrost switch.

Please credit the above  description to TJ Hannink.

******************************************

My comments -

The installation went well until I discovered there were no unoccupied
"P" terminal  available.  I just need to find another place to plug in.

Although I don't know the actual routes of all the added wiring
installed by the PO - everything in the van works - so all those wires
have an active function. They are not just dead wires. It's just that
they run al l over everywhere and there are no "as-builts" as it would
be expressed after a construction project.

So - I'm open to all suggestions. Right now I just need to know of an
alternative place  to put that one wire so it will do what was intended.
I'm sort of desparate for my headlights and looking for the quick and
easy solution at this point.

Thanks

John


John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com


On 9/8/2011 3:56 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> I was going to upgrade my headlight circuits with headlight relays to
> handle new higher wattage lights. Part of this requires cutting some
> wires and these wires are clearly identified in the instructions. When I
> went to do this, and removed the steering column cover to better see
> what I was doing, I discovered a rat's net of wires where the PO had
> done a whole lot of upgrading for himself. There is no way for me to
> identify all those wires making the install non-compatible. So, what
> to do?
>
> I decided to use the TJ Hannick approach, using 30 amp relay mounted on
> the dash  fascia on the left side of the insturment pod and under the
> instrument pod cover. Four wires, no cutting, plug and play - Right?
> Wrong!!!
>
> The first three wires to the relay were a snap. But the fourth - the one
> that powers the control circuit inside  the relay - the fourth one is to
> be plugged into the "P" panel on the back side of the fuse block. Once
> that last wire is connected - the light would/should work. Well, no
> joy!!  I dropped the fuse block, only to discover that the "P" panel
> looked like a Christmas tree loaded with ornaments. The PO in his
> rewiring, had used all 6 output pins and had put extenders on them,
> increasing their ability to carry more connectors with wires. But to the
> detriment of adding anything else at all!!!
>
> My question here is - where else can I connect to pull power for getting
> the relay to work.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> -- John Rodgers Clayartist and Moldmaker 88'GL VW Bus Driver Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>