Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 19:16:20 -0700
Reply-To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Question and parts request.
In-Reply-To: <CF738F0D-9BD7-4B6A-BBEB-319D008B4A70@shaw.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 6:07 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> It is not a dilemma. A dilemma is (at least) two choices equally
> unacceptable.
>
> With the lug nut/bolt choice, both values are published by reputable
> sources and thus both would then be considered acceptable.
>
>
> alistair
>
>
> On 2011-09-25, at 5:54 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> > There-in lies the cod in the swallop!
> >
> > The owners manual says 123 ft-lbs. My Bentley that tells me how to do
> > the maintenance says use 133 Ft-Lb'.
> >
> > So which is it? That is the diliema!
> >
> > John
> >
> > John Rodgers
> > Clayartist and Moldmaker
> > 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> > Chelsea, AL
> > Http://www.moldhaus.com
> >
> >
> > On 9/25/2011 6:56 PM, Alistair Bell wrote:
> >> For example my owner's manual states 123 ft lbs for my '86. Use the data
> published by VW for your van.
>
I sure as heck wouldn't torque any alloy wheels to 133ft lbs. That would
be down right dangerous...asking for a broken wheel.... 133ft lbs is really
tight....maybe right for a semi truck or a big diesel 4X4 with steel
wheels...120 is tight...That is about all I can get undone with a good star
wrench. I use a torque wrench and do up my standard steel wheels at
110...that makes it necessary to stand (or jump) on my VW lug wrench to
change a wheel. I use a little of that anti-seize for spark plugs on my
lugs...
Also whenever I mess with tires and wheels....I like to tie an indicator
on the steering wheel. When I am certain everything has been refastened
and checked, then and only then do I remove the indicator (string, survey
tape, an old sock....anything will do) and drive off.
I agree about checking the work anyone has done on your vehicle....I often
find tires very under inflated as mounted by shops.
I ruined brand new tires and wasted a week and a few thousand dollars,
counting on my normal race mechanic's work without double checking...They
forgot to torque a tie rod end after I had them put it on their alignment
rack. I trailered to the track without time to check everything and got
about 10 minutes of practice before I corded a brand new racing slick,
without a replacement available. Race pretty much over (though I did race,
I had to use really crappy old tires)...I was pissed...He made good on it
for free (whoopie).....but I had to go from Las Vegas back to San Francisco
and then back to Phoenix for the next weekend of racing....and at Phoenix, I
found he had given me "No Charge" (and without telling me) a new short
shifter linkage.....that I had to try to learn while racing at a new
track....and THAT thing broke just 8 minutes from the end of a six hour
enduro....actually, it came undone because he had not got the circlip on
exactly right... After those two or three wasted weeks....I got a new
mechanic....ME...At least I didn't have to commute to SF to have things go
wrong...
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