Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 20:55:42 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Question and parts request.
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
nicely told Don.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hanson" <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: Question and parts request.
> On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 6:07 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>> It is not a dilemma. A dilemma is (at least) two choices equally
>> unacceptable.
>>
>> With the lug nut/bolt choice, both values are published by reputable
>> sources and thus both would then be considered acceptable.
>>
>>
>> alistair
>>
>>
>> On 2011-09-25, at 5:54 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>
>> > There-in lies the cod in the swallop!
>> >
>> > The owners manual says 123 ft-lbs. My Bentley that tells me how to do
>> > the maintenance says use 133 Ft-Lb'.
>> >
>> > So which is it? That is the diliema!
>> >
>> > John
>> >
>> > John Rodgers
>> > Clayartist and Moldmaker
>> > 88'GL VW Bus Driver
>> > Chelsea, AL
>> > Http://www.moldhaus.com
>> >
>> >
>> > On 9/25/2011 6:56 PM, Alistair Bell wrote:
>> >> For example my owner's manual states 123 ft lbs for my '86. Use the
>> >> data
>> published by VW for your van.
>>
>
> I sure as heck wouldn't torque any alloy wheels to 133ft lbs. That
> would
> be down right dangerous...asking for a broken wheel.... 133ft lbs is
> really
> tight....maybe right for a semi truck or a big diesel 4X4 with steel
> wheels...120 is tight...That is about all I can get undone with a good
> star
> wrench. I use a torque wrench and do up my standard steel wheels at
> 110...that makes it necessary to stand (or jump) on my VW lug wrench to
> change a wheel. I use a little of that anti-seize for spark plugs on my
> lugs...
> Also whenever I mess with tires and wheels....I like to tie an indicator
> on the steering wheel. When I am certain everything has been refastened
> and checked, then and only then do I remove the indicator (string, survey
> tape, an old sock....anything will do) and drive off.
> I agree about checking the work anyone has done on your vehicle....I
> often
> find tires very under inflated as mounted by shops.
>
> I ruined brand new tires and wasted a week and a few thousand dollars,
> counting on my normal race mechanic's work without double checking...They
> forgot to torque a tie rod end after I had them put it on their alignment
> rack. I trailered to the track without time to check everything and got
> about 10 minutes of practice before I corded a brand new racing slick,
> without a replacement available. Race pretty much over (though I did
> race,
> I had to use really crappy old tires)...I was pissed...He made good on it
> for free (whoopie).....but I had to go from Las Vegas back to San
> Francisco
> and then back to Phoenix for the next weekend of racing....and at Phoenix,
> I
> found he had given me "No Charge" (and without telling me) a new short
> shifter linkage.....that I had to try to learn while racing at a new
> track....and THAT thing broke just 8 minutes from the end of a six hour
> enduro....actually, it came undone because he had not got the circlip on
> exactly right... After those two or three wasted weeks....I got a new
> mechanic....ME...At least I didn't have to commute to SF to have things go
> wrong...
| 
