Date:         Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:50:22 -0700
Reply-To:     mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: [Syncro] Re: Westy Interior Swap- Rear Seat bolts without
              welding?
Comments: To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com
Comments: cc: craig cowan <phishman068@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAH3v19LbT3E8ovrWfejCB07e+qA0GpfZ7o3j_oSbZ1MYdQFdFw@mail.gmail.com>
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You have to figure out what you want to do for a main floor finished
surface. The Luan is used as a soft filler that deforms to the
mismatched surfaces and cuts down on noise. As Alistair said the floor
foam needs to go, at least under the cabinets. The Luan can cover the
whole floor as an underpayment but it is not strong enough by itself to
cover the spaces between the floor ribs in the main area after the foam
is removed. If you don't plain a second solid floor layer above the Luan
you will need to have filler strips between the floor ribs in the area
not under cabinets. Or use the soft Luan just under the cabinets and a
stronger type of plywood in the main floor area.

There is often some minor interference where the bed/seat box assembly
is contoured for the sloped metal body area under the rear bench. Expect
to trim some small spots of the wood so the bed box sits right. The
passenger body has sound dampening pads stuck to it that can keep the
wood box from fitting exactly as intended. Trim the wood as needed where
those contact points are a problem.

Mark

craig cowan wrote:
> Does the height of the riser nuts have an effect if they're eliminated? I
> guess they just meet up flush with the wood floor though.
> So you just start with a piece of Luan cut to fill the passanger
> compartment, then drill accordingly as you install? Do you remove the GL
> factory foam sound deadening floor stuff or lay the Luan ontop of that?
>
> -Craig
>