Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:18:27 -0700
Reply-To: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Remove Broken Stud: Web Page
In-Reply-To: <CAMuoOU4bHrLAbEUcu7Jg1dyZceFkqZjvDjP2UYGcVY_KsTXj7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Thanks, John, but I tried this with spray lube, with conventional ice and with dry ice. Zip, nada, nothing in the way of progress. I sure wish something had worked.
Stephen
--- On Mon, 10/24/11, John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
From: John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Remove Broken Stud: Web Page
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Monday, October 24, 2011, 1:25 PM
Stephen,
I've found that heating the bolt & nut followed by a stream of water on the
heated parts does wonders to break the adhesion. Theory is that the parts
will cool and contract at different rates, breaking them loose..
John Meeks
'91 Vanagon MV
Northern Michigan
Vanagon Rescue Squad
www.vanagonauts.com
On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 10:03 AM, Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@yahoo.com>wrote:
> Remember, it was actually a bolt and not a stud. Perhaps those bolts are
> made from a different steel than the studs are. I also read that heat from
> welding can further harden such a piece so perhpas this contributed to the
> difficulty.
>
> Stephen
>
> --- On Mon, 10/24/11, James Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
>
> From: James Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: Re: Remove Broken Stud: Web Page
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Date: Monday, October 24, 2011, 9:03 AM
>
>
> That stud should not have been that difficult to drill out. As far as I
> know they are fairly mild steel.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> On Oct 24, 2011, at 4:56 AM, Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
>
> > BTDTOTTNS (Been There, Done That, On To The Next Step).
> >
> > I had the opportunity to try that this weekend and REALLY wish it had
> worked for me. The broken exhaust bolt (might as well be a stud by now) did
> not succumb to propane heat, the "100 taps" and a variety of persuasions
> including two different types of extractors, so I paid a mobile welder to
> give this a try on Saturday. Three attempts resulted in an ever shorter
> stud as another piece broke off per attempt. On the last one after welding
> the nut on he also heated the area of the head with his acetylene torch, all
> to no avail.
> >
> > Drilling in place was the next step but I could barely make a dent beyond
> the punch mark in the end of the piece. I finally pulled the head to take to
> a machine shop and that is where we stand at the moment. The welding method
> might work in 90% of the cases, so I guess I'm just lucky. Fate wanted me
> to get more intimate with the WBX than I ever intended.
> >
> > Stephen
> >
> > --- On Mon, 10/24/11, neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> >
> > From: neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> > Subject: Remove Broken Stud: Web Page
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Date: Monday, October 24, 2011, 12:08 AM
> >
> > Stumbled on this via thesamba. IIRC, I had read a comment from Terry K
> > referring to this method and wasn't 100% sure what he meant. Seems
> > this may be the technique he spoke of:
> >
> > http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm
> >
> > Neil.
> >
> > --
> > Neil n
> >
> > 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
> >
> > '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
> >
> > Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
> >
> >
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
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