Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 23:25:01 -0700
Reply-To: Cunegonde <cunegonde.van.westfalia@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Cunegonde <cunegonde.van.westfalia@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Headlight Mystery (2 lamp/Halogen)
In-Reply-To: <4ea3945e.cb97dc0a.1ea8.ffff90beSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Recently, Cunegonde's headlights misbehaved severely. She intermittently has just the driver's side high beam. I took out both hi/lo bulbs and tested them with a 12v source.
She has the Bosch motorcycle headlamp upgrade
The spade connectors at fuse block, headlight rocker switch, and bulb holders are clean (I use dielectric grease on them)
The parking/turn signals work normally, so if it's a ground fault, any idea where?
I have a spare ignition switch. Could the problem be in the old one? (this was an issue in my Volvos as the electric rotary switch contacts wore out)
On Oct 22, 2011, at 21:00, Automatic digest processor <LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote:
> There are 12 messages totalling 341 lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
> 1. Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy (2)
> 2. [WetWesties] Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy
> 3. <No subject given>
> 4. T3 singlecab speedo (f)
> 5. Sumitomo tires? (4)
> 6. vanagon speedo
> 7. 1984 1.9L/autotransmission ** flat spot around 2500 +/- 400 rpm when
> driving
> 8. 1984 1.9L/autotransmission ** flat spot around 2500 +/- 400 rpm
> when driving
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 12:52:15 -0700
> From: Courtney Hook <courtneyhook@SHAW.CA>
> Subject: Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy
>
> OK, so something is def. not good here. I wasn't getting anywhere with =
> the multimeter, so I tried the other method which someone forwarded to =
> me, I put a 12v light between the negative cable and negative post with =
> everything turned off. The light came on. This is supposed to indicate a =
> current draw. I then proceeded to remove the fuses one by one to see =
> which circuit the light went out on. It didn't go out at all. I even =
> removed the backup, gas heater, and 2 other 30 amp fuses on my Westy. =
> Light still stayed on. I took off the positive cable and removed the red =
> + wire to the VW diagnostic plug at the back thinking it might be =
> grounding, along with the other factory small +ve wire on the +ve cable =
> that heads off into the wiring harness, then sat +ve cable back on the =
> post. The light still stayed on.=20
> Where else can I check? I have removed every fuse in the van. Would =
> REALLY appreciate some pro help here. I'm losing about 0.3 volts over a =
> 16hr period.
> Thanks,
> Courtney
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:00:32 -0700
> From: Loren Busch <starwagen@GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: Re: [WetWesties] Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy
>
> RE: Current Draw
> Your basic setup is fine, cable (either one) removed from the battery then
> put the test instrument between the cable and the battery to complete the
> circuit.
> Now go back to the multimeter. You will most likely find a setting that
> says DC 10 amps (or maybe 20 on some metes). Set the meter to that setting
> and put it between the battery and the cable, just like you did the light
> bulb. You should get a reading. If small, under one amp (all numbers to
> the right of the decimal point) then look for a lower setting under DC Amps
> and to to that.
> Ideally you should se no more than 50-100 mv. More than that especially 1
> amp or more means that is a draw downstream.
> And you might not have pulled all the fuses, there are some buried above the
> fuse block. And don't forget the fuses for the camper equipment (assuming a
> Westy).
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:42:55 -0700
> From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
> Subject: Re: Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy
>
> I would go to the fuse box area next.
> You should also know that there are circuits that are not fuse protected.
>
> for example......anything to do with the main charging wire from alternator
> to starter/battery.
>
> The igntion circuit is not fuse-protected either.
> be extra careful undoing wires at the back side of the fuse box..
> draw yourself a map/diagram before removing more than one wire.
> Take pictures, etc.
>
> the test light in series with the negative cable is fine.
> Same results with doing in series with the positive cable too.
> "It's just a leakage or blockage of fluids or electrons."
>
> scott
> www.turbovans.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Courtney Hook" <courtneyhook@SHAW.CA>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 12:52 PM
> Subject: Multimeter help UPDATE-77 Westy
>
>
> OK, so something is def. not good here. I wasn't getting anywhere with the
> multimeter, so I tried the other method which someone forwarded to me, I put
> a 12v light between the negative cable and negative post with everything
> turned off. The light came on. This is supposed to indicate a current draw.
> I then proceeded to remove the fuses one by one to see which circuit the
> light went out on. It didn't go out at all. I even removed the backup, gas
> heater, and 2 other 30 amp fuses on my Westy. Light still stayed on. I took
> off the positive cable and removed the red + wire to the VW diagnostic plug
> at the back thinking it might be grounding, along with the other factory
> small +ve wire on the +ve cable that heads off into the wiring harness, then
> sat +ve cable back on the post. The light still stayed on.
> Where else can I check? I have removed every fuse in the van. Would REALLY
> appreciate some pro help here. I'm losing about 0.3 volts over a 16hr
> period.
> Thanks,
> Courtney
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 18:17:25 -0400
> From: David Cohen <mtbdavid2@AOL.COM>
> Subject: <No subject given>
>
> http://www.goldengrave.com/wp-content/themes/depo-square/inbex.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 19:55:12 -0400
> From: JordanVw@AOL.COM
> Subject: T3 singlecab speedo (f)
>
> singlecab speedo. literally. i can see some of y'all in this. =20
> scary. very scary
> =20
> _VW Pritsche String Tanga Bus Bulli T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 Doka | eBay_=20
> (http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Pritsche-String-Tanga-Bus-Bulli-T1-T2-T3-T4-T5-D=
> oka-/2306472
> 09531?pt=3DDE_Damenunterw=E4sche&var=3D&hash=3Ditem7b683e60bf)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 16:47:28 -0700
> From: Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
> Subject: Sumitomo tires?
>
> The subject about says it all... An experience with Sumitomo tires?
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Rob
>
> becida@comcast.net
> Western Washington State, USA
> "Going where the climate suits my clothes"
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 20:00:13 -0400
> From: JordanVw@AOL.COM
> Subject: vanagon speedo
>
> and here's a vanagon speedo
> =20
> _VW Bus Bulli String Tanga T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 Doka Pritsche | eBay_=20
> (http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Bus-Bulli-String-Tanga-T1-T2-T3-T4-T5-Doka-Prits=
> che-/2306472
> 11588?pt=3DDE_Damenunterw=E4sche&var=3D&hash=3Ditem7b683e6128) =20
> =20
> OMG.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 20:47:06 -0400
> From: Roger VanTill <motelvw@GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: Re: Sumitomo tires?
>
> I've had them on my Audi 90 for a couple years. Seem decent. Do they make
> something rated for a Vanagon?
>
> On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Rob <becida@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> The subject about says it all... An experience with Sumitomo tires?
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> becida@comcast.net
>> Western Washington State, USA
>> "Going where the climate suits my clothes"
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Peace out, sauerkraut.
> Roger
> '89 Westy "The Moose Lounge"
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 18:06:46 -0700
> From: Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
> Subject: Re: Sumitomo tires?
>
> I'm looking at 16" wheels, they have some XL tires 215/60R16XL
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> At 10/22/2011 05:47 PM, Roger VanTill wrote:
>> I've had them on my Audi 90 for a couple years. Seem decent. Do they
>> make something rated for a Vanagon?
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Rob
>> <<mailto:becida@comcast.net>becida@comcast.net> wrote:
>> The subject about says it all... An experience with Sumitomo tires?
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> <mailto:becida@comcast.net>becida@comcast.net
>> Western Washington State, USA
>> "Going where the climate suits my clothes"
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 22:47:09 -0400
> From: David Clarkson <dvdclarksn@AOL.COM>
> Subject: Re: Sumitomo tires?
>
> Yes, I had a set of Geolanders on my 98 CRV and they separated right down t=
> he center of the tread. Would have been a scary blowout! Got a set of Miche=
> lins like I should have done in the first place. Found out later they were =
> recalled but I got no notification.
>
> David Clarkson
> =20
>
> =20
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
> To: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 22, 2011 8:13 pm
> Subject: Sumitomo tires?
>
> =20
> =20
> =20
> The subject about says it all... An experience with Sumitomo tires?=20
> Thanks,=20
> =20
> =20
> =20
> Rob=20
> =20
> becida@comcast.net=20
> Western Washington State, USA=20
> "Going where the climate suits my clothes"=20
> =20
>
> =20
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 22:57:26 -0400
> From: John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@BELLSOUTH.NET>
> Subject: 1984 1.9L/autotransmission ** flat spot around 2500 +/- 400 rpm when
> driving
>
> For the past six months or so, I have been fighting drivability issues
> with the 1.9L engine on my '84 Vanagon. I replaced much of the ignition
> system, replaced the old fuel tank with a new one, and checked for
> vacuum leaks. When I installed the new long block in 2003, and replaced
> as many of the components as I could obtain even if the existing ones
> appeared to be okay. These included the distributor and the AFM.
> Should those items need replacement after eight years (but only about
> 30,000 miles)?
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 20:56:23 -0700
> From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
> Subject: Re: 1984 1.9L/autotransmission ** flat spot around 2500 +/- 400 rpm
> when driving
>
> re
> 'These included the distributor and the AFM.
> Should those items need replacement after eight years (but only about
> 30,000 miles)?"
>
> new or used ? If new they should be OK.
> if rebuilt..........perhaps less so.
>
> AFM fits with 'flat spot'.
>
> how bad a flat spot ?
> a weak spot in the acceleration curve,
> or just falls on its face ?
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Lauterbach" <jhlauterbach@BELLSOUTH.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 7:57 PM
> Subject: 1984 1.9L/autotransmission ** flat spot around 2500 +/- 400 rpm
> when driving
>
>
>> For the past six months or so, I have been fighting drivability issues
>> with the 1.9L engine on my '84 Vanagon. I replaced much of the ignition
>> system, replaced the old fuel tank with a new one, and checked for
>> vacuum leaks. When I installed the new long block in 2003, and replaced
>> as many of the components as I could obtain even if the existing ones
>> appeared to be okay. These included the distributor and the AFM.
>> Should those items need replacement after eight years (but only about
>> 30,000 miles)?
>>
>> John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of vanagon Digest - 21 Oct 2011 to 22 Oct 2011 (#2011-820)
> **************************************************************
| 
