Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (October 2011, week 5)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 30 Oct 2011 14:02:46 -0400
Reply-To:     Gregg Carlen <gregg.carlen@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Gregg Carlen <gregg.carlen@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Alternator Troubleshooting
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Hi folks, I'm hoping I can tap into the collective wisdom of the list for some light Sunday afternoon troubleshooting help.

Background: 91 Westy, 2.1l, automatic. Northern Virginia area.

My battery light came on yesterday during our icky weather. At first, it was faint and appeared to be flickering, but quickly became steady ‘on’. As I would expect, after about 15-20 minutes of driving with headlights, windshield wipers, rear heater and rear defroster on, I lost power and the van stalled.

On the side of the road, I put my voltmeter across the battery and got ~7 volts. Dead battery. Connected my portable jump-starter battery pack, waited a few minutes, and started the engine (without headlights, minimal use of wipers and all other battery drains turned off). If I turned off the jump-starter, within 30 seconds the engine would stall out. If I Ieft the jump-starter on, the van would start and I drove it for another 10 minutes to get off the highway and to the parking lot of a gas station (where it stalled out again because the jump-starter was drained by this point).

Weather turned worse and called AAA for a tow. Ran out last night and picked up a rebuilt Remy-brand after-market 90A alternator (just in case I would need it the next day).

Now that I’ve got a chance to check things out, here’s what I did:

Before starting anything, I charged the starting battery, checked terminals, alt belt tension, cleaned wire connections to alternator. Re-started the engine and the alt light came on, strong and steady. Volt meter across terminals B and D resulted in about 7V.

Thinking to just jump all in and swap the alternator, I quickly realized that the pulley’s were different between the alternator in the van and the rebuilt one in the box, so no-go for a quick and easy swap since I don’t have an air compressor strong enough to power an air-wrench to ‘bump’ the retaining nut on the pulleys. Tried holding it with a vice and such, but really it’s on there tight. For reference, the pulley on the alternator in my van (which has a ‘remanufactured’ label on it, looks like the v-belt pulley on 27.17 in Bentley. It’s up close to the fan. The rebuilt replacement alternator I picked up last night from FLAPs has a pulley that looks like the one for a 45A/65A alternator on page 27.16 and the 90A version on 27.15. (The rest of the alternator looks like the 90A version on 27.17).

So, some quick testing with a voltmeter:

Test 1: with the engine running, I put my positive lead on terminal B and the negative lead on terminal D. The voltage was 7.1V. Battery light still on dash.

Thinking this is a bad voltage regulator or brushes, I pulled the voltage regulator out. A little grimey at the metal contacts, but the brushes looked fine. Cleaned the grime off and re-installed the regulator. Restart the engine and check voltage across terminals B and D and I get 7.1V. Battery light still on dash.

Just for kicks, I pulled the regulator out again compared it against the one in the new alternator from FLAPs and they look identical physically.

Test 2: Installed the new voltage regulator into my old alternator. Started the engine and tested across terminals B and D and I get 6.9V. A few other measurements at this point (wish I had taken them in previous tests):

Terminal B to alternator housing: 11.75v, dropping to 11.5v after about 30 seconds

Terminal D to alternator housing: 4.57v

So, given that information and testing, I’m thinking either I have a bad alternator (diode, perhaps) or I’m chasing down the wrong path altogether.

One other caveat to mention: on my original alternator, the suppression condenser was not mounted the same as the new alternator from FLAPs (which was connected to terminal W and the alternator housing). Mine has had the connector cut off and mounted to Terminal D, and the condenser itself had the hole enlarged and mounted to terminal B. Don’t know that this would cause an issue, but thought I’d mention it. It’s been this way since I acquired the van earlier this year.

Any thoughts or advice on other things to check? Or, next steps to take? Do I replace the alternator at this point (find a way to swap the pulleys or get a replacement one with the correct pulley)?

Thanks in advance!

Gregg

91 Westy (Blueberry)


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.