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Date:         Sun, 6 Nov 2011 20:25:21 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: '85 1.9 - fuel issues - UPDATED - Now longer nad with more
              Frustration and discust!
Comments: To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

I would say it's that weird .. just haven't found the problem/s yet.

re "I tested for power at the injectors - hooked a test light up had > someone turn the key and the light stays on solid - Bently says it should > pulse but it does not. "

That doesn't exactly make sense. them main relay sends a steady, non-pulsing 12 volts to each injector. If there is the slightest variation in voltage during starter cranking ..that would just be voltage availbale varying very sligtly due to starter load .. that voltage is steady. however.. if you are using a NOID light .. which you must have for basic simple, fast, easy trouble shooting..that light should pulse. It must pulse actually.

a NOID light is imperative to have , since in two seconds it tells you if the ecu is firing the injectors, ( which it usually is on most no-start situations that I've worked on. )

For rear wheel bearing to fail that totally and catastophically.. they had to be making noise for the last 3 years at least. I hope you checked the other side since repairing the bad side. I just go by up-down play of the wheel... it's the smaller outer bearing that wears and has huge load on it ... if the wheel moves up and down 1/8th of an inch ...that's 'getting there' ..anything more than that is of real concern. And of course, turn the wheel feeling for smoothness or roughness. I've replace countless vanagon rear wheel bearings .. usually they just have so many miles on them, and some play, you know it's time to do them.

try this sometime if you suspect bearing wear, noise, or rumble.. swerve gently left and right at about 35mph or so .. 'normally' and usually .. if left side bearing are bad ..........the noise will diminish slightly swevering to the left, but be there going straight or swevring right.

how long was the battery dead ? jump staring is not good practice. What would be correct, and safest for the vehcile is charge the battery properly with a battery charger .. then start the van.

Back to the no-start .................don't be tricked by it being flooded. It's possible that fuel as gotten into the cylinders while trying to get 'er fired up. while cranking and not firing up .. and whatever the issue is you've fixed it or it went away ....and the plugs are wet, and ........wet spark plugs do not fire very well.

scott www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Hanson" <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 5:29 PM Subject: Re: '85 1.9 - fuel issues - UPDATED - Now longer nad with more Frustration and discust!

> Faulty coil? Plugged fuel return line? Try running with the gas cap off, > perhaps. Weird one for sure. > Don Hanson > > On Sun, Nov 6, 2011 at 5:00 PM, Jeff Lincoln <magikvw@gmail.com> wrote: > >> OK - this will be long but I felt it best to start at the begining. >> >> Several weeks ago my driver side rear tire cam off while going down the >> road - less scary and less damaging than expected. I know this is most >> likely not related to my current issues but this si where I will start. >> >> Long story short on that tire situation - the bearings were bad - the >> castlre nut spun off sheared the the cotter pin and the tire and entire >> brake drum went with it. One stub axle, backing plate, bearings, brake >> drum, and all new rear brakes later (a few weeks later) - it's all back >> together and time to check it all out - go to start it and the battery is >> dead - so we jump start it and it starts right up. >>>>> >> >> It's running great then stalls out - we jump start it again - running >> great >> sounding great - pull onto the street and I have no power when I give it >> gas. Then idling very poorly - rough sputtering runnign crappy - then >> won't >> start at all. Hmmmmm - was running great before tire issue and started >> and >> ran great at first - darn. Well, lets put some dry gas in it and charge >> the >> battery - next day nothing - will not start. >>>> life is busy and a >> couple >> weeks pass before I can get a chance to really get into it (with a few >> attempts of wishful thinking trying to start it. >> >> So the past two days I've had some time and here is what I have done and >> what I know: >> >> 1. I have spark and lots of it >> 2. If I spray starting fluid in the engine starts right up >> 3. I've replace the fuel filter >> 4. I have fuel pressure after the pump (and filter) >> 5. I've left the fuel line unhooked while someone turned the key - fuel >> spray out of the filter (I previously switched from pre-pump plastic >> filter >> to later model canister post pump filter) >> 6. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator with a known good one. >> >> So today I tested for power at the injectors - hooked a test light up had >> someone turn the key and the light stays on solid - Bently says it should >> pulse but it does not. I checked some of the terminals on the relays but >> ran out of light and didn't get to finish. >> >> Now, I also swapped in a know good ECU - the bus started - ran for a few >> seconds and then stalled out never to start again. Is it possible I have >> a >> bad ECU and now have screwed up another? >> >> I don't know - I'm just frusterated and at the end of my rope right now >> (on >> to other tasks and a good night sleep will help). >> >> I'm wide open for further suggestions and advice. >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jeff >> '85 GL (Gertie) >> '90 Carat (Grover - the noble parts donor) >> '78 Bus (Melissa) Patty's Bus >>


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