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Date:         Mon, 7 Nov 2011 09:45:47 -0800
Reply-To:     Poppie Jagersand <poppie.jagersand@YAHOO.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Poppie Jagersand <poppie.jagersand@YAHOO.CA>
Subject:      Glow plug info for 1.6 and 1.9l VW engines.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dear All,

There have been many posts on the glow plugs and hard starting recently.

A writeup with pictures on how the system functions is here: http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/engine/glowplugs/glowplugs.html

The starting problem with a partially warm engine can be resolved by removing the wire at the temp sensor. This is shown in the last picture on the above web page. I have run with my wire off for 15 years with no apparent damage, but this may depend on the plug type you have. See more below.

Some people have wished for an indicator light that shows if plugs are actually on. (As the yellow light does not strictly do this.). The IMHO easiest solution: 1. Turn on one of the interior lights (e.g. above the driver). 2. Turn ignition key to glow position. You'll notice how the light dims from the voltage drop imposed by the 50+A additional current draw. 3. Notice how the yellow LED is on. 4. After about 40s the yellow LED goes off, but light is still dim = plugs are still on. 5. Light goes brighter again. You may also hear the relay "click" from the back. Now plugs are off.

Notes: a. With the "disconnected temp sender fix" you can try to crank anytime you feel you had enough glowing, e.g. after 10s. Glows will turn off once engine runs.

(If anyone can figure out how the engine knows this let me know. It works independent of the alternator charging signal -- Also if the D/TD is push started w/o ever putting the key to "crank" the systems gets confused. I don;t have good understanding of this part.)

b. In cold temps ( below -10C) I usually glow once through the full 40-50s cycle w/o starting, then start on the second cycle. This will heat the prechambers a bit better.

c. There are many varieties of glowplugs. Old slow glows, fast glows, aftermarket. In mid 90's on the AAZ 1.9l D/TD's VW started using PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) glows. These are intentionally made to have high initial power (60-70A on mine), which drops as the glows go warm to about 40A. This acts as protection, so the plug is less likely to be damaged from prolonged glowing (like with the "disconnected temp sender fix").

d. Comment on the method using a clamp ampere meter, paragraph 4.2 in the web page writeup linked above: With the PTC plugs, absolute measurements are less reliable. You have to take it either at the very start to compare about to the 60A current, or near the end to compare at the 40A. Also the 60 and 40A could be different for you, so measure your glows and record reference currents before you have problems. Then if you have a problem ans suspect glows, current measurements of 3/4*60=45A = 1 faulty glow (common), 2/4*60=30A = 2 faulty (very uncommon two breaks at the same time). Current near 0 A: Likely glow plug fuse (see arrow on web page), bad contacts someplace, or faulty relay.

If the 50A fuse breaks on a trip you can replace it with a bit of wire. A 16 or 18 gauge (copper diam 1 to 1.3mm) should work.

Martin (and '82 Westy 1.9TD "Poppie")

Improving glow plug system for winter cold starts.

In newer IDI engines VW keeps the glows on for a while after the engine starts at cold temps. This makes it run much smoother/ cleaner (less white smoke, smooth idle). It would be nice to have the same feature in our older Diesels. It would require newer PTC glows (which I assume is what's being sold now - see previous post). And a way to keep the glows on past engine starting:

1. A crude way would be a 2nd 50A relay parallel with the glow plug, and a momentary button at the dash. Hold in button until idle is smooth (10s - 1min or so depending on temp).

2. Much smarter would be if someone knew how to trick the original relay to do this. The signal wiring from the relay goes to the front anyway. Ideally it could be as simple as just putting a momentary switch between two under dash terminals. Does anyone know?

Martin (and '82 Westy 1.9TD "Poppie")


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