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Date:         Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:54:27 -0600
Reply-To:     ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Westy Weighed... Setting Corner Spring Rates
Comments: To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAAj276wNNgQt-5_yZJaB3CubvYBHURddx-A=UYiT2nWvGOUFjg@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sorry to say but the best bet is redistribution of weight in/on your charriot. Spring rate changes the amount load transfer and shocks the timing of that transfer, the rates you were showing would make us tight push on corner entry ,loose at apex and tight/push on corner exit with the roundy round dirt cars we ran. Keep your left and right springs balanced with the same rate to prevent awkward handling differences between left and right turns,you may put more or less of a split between front and rear which will only change handling on acceleration and braking

Velma 82diesel 1.6 na westy

On Nov 26, 2011 10:04 AM, "Don Hanson" <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote:

On Sat, Nov 26, 2011 at 4:43 AM, Derek Drew <derekdrew@derekmail.com> wrote:

> Nobody seems to real... The most important part of setting up a vehicle for optimum handling is corner weights. The ride height has to be adjusted properly to achieve optimum corner weight distribution. Until the ride height is properly adjusted, nothing else will make any predictable and consistent difference. You could put 300lb springs LF/RR and 1000lb ers RF/LR...and still not even up the actual tire load if the ride height is not optimized. Wheel alignment, too, is totally dependent on ride height adjustment. Suspensions work as a System...changes to one part of the system affect the rest of the parts of the system...Corner weight and ride height are very interdependent....You adjust your corner weight by changing the ride height...and of course standard suspension on a Vanagon is not very easily adjustable.

Spring rates: First, you must have the load at the tires adjusted to optimum....that is where you can start calculating the spring rates you want....Using the body work to measure ride height is not very accurate. To be accurate, one needs four scales and a very very level spot to set up. The ride height needs to be measured at some chassis point that is close to the suspension axis of movement..... As little as 1/16th of an inch change in ride height can transfer a hundred lbs of tire load from corner to corner.....A few hundred lbs of tire load makes a huge difference in how a vehicle will respond in low traction situations. You simply can't expect to get any meaningful improvement in vehicle behavior by willy-nilly swapping of springs of different rates, without first getting it evened up on it's tires....Period.

In the original post, it was mentioned the LR/RF had a hugely bigger load than the two opposite corners, right? Think of your dining room table...the one that rocked on it's legs till you stuck that matchbook under one leg (or more properly cut the longer legs down). Now, think of those legs ...If you make the two lower corner legs out of 6x6 timbers, they still would be too short. If you say..."hey, these tall legs, they are holding up 200lbs of food and drink, I better make them from angle iron to carry this big load"....they will still be too long and the table will still rock and spill your wine....

Heavier springs/lighter springs...change the springs very much and you will need to change the shock action, too. Dampers/Dampeners...whatever, the shocks control how quickly the springs compress and extend.

Suspension art is really fascinating and quite a study.


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