Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2011 14:33:06 -0800
Reply-To: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: Stuck in Needles, need advice
In-Reply-To: <3k7o0gbtwkoptkqd2pu48jd1.1325369580564@email.android.com>
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Ok, hope it goes well. There is one more thing I should mention. The
critical black power wire from the key switch back to the coil is a
frequent cause of what you are experiencing. The wire connects to the
coil via the back of the dash main fuse/relay panel and the pin where
this one connection in the panel tends to burn out over the years. The
pin is D15 in the diagrams. You can bypass this cooked pin easily enough
to get home. The simple way is to connect a wire from the alternator
power stud to the side of the coil where 2 black wires connect. The
slightly larger of the black wires is the one coming from the key
switch. By providing a direct connection to that side of the coil you no
longer need the power from the key switch to run the ignition coil and
injection relays. Of course this means the key won't turn the engine off
either but for limping home it may be useful to know. Remember that that
power stud on the alternator connects to the battery with no fuse
protection and has power 100% of the time. Careful.
Mark
David Hardy wrote:
> Running fine but a few random momentary cutouts not sure if or when it will go completely will check those two. things if/when it does. Thanks so much for being out there on the other end from wife and daughter
> Sent from my Android
>
> mark drillock<mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:
>
>> If you are dead in the water and it won't start lets check for power in
>> a few places. At the alternator, there is a threaded stud that has a few
>> red wires attached by a 13mm nut. It should measure 12 volts at all
>> times. Measure with key off, key on, and during cranking. It should have
>> voltage at all times! Does it?
>>
>> Above the coil area is a black box with 2 relays in it. Open the lid and
>> feel the relays while someone turns the key on and off a few times. Both
>> relays should click on with the key. Do they?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> David Hardy wrote:
>>> Did the test in the Bentley on the hall sender and it didn't light up my non-led test lamp,nor do I get volts accross middle to either side terminal when cranking. So am I stuck here for a week?
>>> David
>>>
>>> Sent from my Android
>>>
>>> mark drillock<mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> If you have a volt meter and a helper we can give it a go.
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> David Hardy wrote:
>>>>> Riding along fine and suddenly our 90 westy cuts out, tach drops; came back on,happened again, etc. Lights on dash still worked but tach showed nothing. Finally died, got it running an hour later, slept the night, starts fine, but after a mile or so started cutting out again, with very high(3k) idle. Thinking of having a new ecu and hall sender and/or distributor fedex'd. .but kind of a crapshoot. Any advice appreciated.
>>>>> David
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my Android
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