the lesson I would take is that no cooling system o-ring should ever be installed dry. Even on a used o-ring .. a high quality black silicone sealant... ( a very good one is Toyota's ) .. and it won't leak. ( The Right Stuff is good too...in the caulking tube, not the aerosol version ) Even factory assembled Honda's are put together with dry o-rings on their thermostats.. and in about 6 years...they seep coolant there. Talking to a customer on the phone..I knew before ever seeing the car, that's that what they had going on. Scott www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "John Bange" <jbange@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 9:47 AM Subject: Engine swap lessons learned
> Finished swapping the engine out of my 90 GL with the screaming manual > transmission (bad bearing), and into my 90 non-GL automatic (whose engine > was making a Bad Noise). When I finally added all the requisite fluids and > hooked up all the wires, it started right up. Ran it for a while, and then > noticed a small puddle forming under the back. Coolant, or course. The > water pump to engine case O-ring is no longer sealing. Never leaked > before, > when it was in the GL, but we all know that's what happens, right? I > changed all the hoses, replaced the plastic 90 degree bend hose fitting on > the right side by the pulley with a metal one, changed the fuel lines and > injectors,and changed the ossified and leaking flywheel/flex plate crank > seal and O-ring. > > So the lesson I've learned is, if you don't know when the water pump seals > were replaced last, you might as well replace them if you have the engine > out, even if they don't leak. I've just gone ahead and ordered a whole new > water pump, because if I'm going to rassle with getting the old one off > with the engine in, I want this to be the ONLY time I do it. |
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