Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:29:34 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: brake lines and hoses? Snarkiness!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Sorry about my "Snarky" response. However I was unfamiliar with this word so thank you for the vocabulary lesson.
For the most part brake line replacement is sort of grunt work with the most difficult part often being removal of rusted fittings, especially at the front rear tees. It is hard to find aftermarket tees with the holes for mounting and while I like to support OEM parts the dealer price for the OEM tees and couplings is "off the charts". As for the rear bleeders it may be time to replace the cylinders anyway. I do often get the line (5 meter roll), the ends and the clips from VW.
You obviously have some experience here and my comment was really based on wanting a "procedure". Again, my apologizes.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Mike B.
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:12 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: brake lines and hoses?
Thanks, John, Jason, David and Scott. This is the info I was looking for.
I found Dennis' comment to be pretty snarky-sounding, having a bad day, fella?
I did find the poly-coated 25' coil at NAPA for $23 (on sale right
now) and the ends are 1.69 each, but the top quality ISO flare tool they sell is $97 with lifetime warr. I have done complete Beetle brake lines for years, and those kits are cheap and readily available, but I have very little experience doing Vanagon lines. No kits available, no parts vendors selling so much as a single hard line, no descriptions online (with the exception of the wiki one that I finally found last night) The one on BTDT is just plain wrong and dangerous; using compression fittings at each end to avoid flaring is horrible advice and won't pass any state safety inspection using brass compression unions. That one needs to be replaced with a better one that's got more detailed info and uses legal and proper methods.
I'll look into the Carquest 30' coil of copper alloy stuff, but if it's way more expensive, I'll just stay with the Napa coated line. I appears that I'll be needing 30' either way, but NAPA also sells coated pre made lines in various lengths to make up for what's needed. I like the idea of not using any unions anywhere, if possible, but if it's more practical for installation ease, I will do one. The 2 tee's are the same as a Beetle tee and are not expensive. The flex hose clips are also the same as Beetle parts. The rear bleed screws seem to be the same as Beetle parts also (one of mine is rusted badly but works using
vise grips). The flex lines are cheap enough at a couple of the parts
vendors.
I just finished water pump, engine bay coolant hoses, fuel lines, gas tank reseal and a new steel power steering pressure line, so the brake lines are next on the agenda, out of necessity!
My Motive pressure bleeder needs a new line now after it doused my dash with brake fluid while I was under the van wrestling with the bleeders doing a flush. That fluid was very dark, so I may need to do rear wheels cylinders soon, but the front calipers are new. The master cyl is original but works fine and no leaks yet so it's in the plan, but I'm shopping around for one now.
Thanks, Mike B.
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 10:04 PM, John Meeks wrote:
Sent that last from my phone. DOH!
The rest of the message:
Get your tubing, nuts, a couple of T fittings and remove, bend and flare one piece at a time. Easist way to get the job done. Do use the alloy.
Mine have two winters in the salt with no sign of degrading.
John Meeks
'91 Vanagon MV
Northern Michigan
Vanagon Rescue Squad
www.vanagonauts.com <http://www.vanagonauts.com>
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 9:57 PM, John Meeks < vanagon@gmail.com <javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')> >
wrote:
Mike, <javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
Speech to text makes for some entertaining reading.
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
If you drive salty roads I highly recommend a copper nickel ferrous alloy tubing. Easy to bend and flare and will amaze you with it's resistance to road salt.
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
I got a 30' roll from a carquest flaps.
Fedhill is more expensive but they will lend you a nice expensive bubble flare tool.
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
Get your tubing, nuts
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('vanagon@gmail.com')>
I checked the beach I checked the van to get laid and thebomb.com <http://thebomb.com> I can't find any procedure for brake line replacement I need to know how long each line is so I can buy enough brake line oil to replace all my line on my 1987 westy if any of this sounds funny it's because I'm using my voice on my verizon Wireless not sosmartphone <http://thebomb.com>
<http://thebomb.com>
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