Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 14:24:38 -0800
Reply-To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Poor man battery testing
In-Reply-To: <BAY152-W19FECF9C2D5A105E0CBD18A08E0@phx.gbl>
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On 01/27/2012 06:42 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
"[...] a basic 400 watt unit will do the job [...] and the feature we
want is that it will shut off when the battery reaches 100% discharge
(10.5 volts)."
Something like this fine $20 item, perhaps?
<http://www.harborfreight.com/400-watt-continuous-800-watt-peak-power-inverter-66814.html>
The other item is, "[...] an old style electric clock."
For the young-uns, ol' Dennis is referring to something like an
old-school AC-powered electromechanical clocks, the kind with a small
synchronous motor and a bunch of gears, something that churns away as
long as power is applied then just stops when it loses power--like a
"Westclox" brand or similar clock, but not a digital clock that plugs
into the wall and goes dark as soon as the power is cut off. However,
electromechanical "digital" clocks with the little physical painted
flip-over tiles, like in "Groundhog Day," will work, too.
Now that's a bit harder. First stop, Goodwill!
--
Jack "Rocket j Squirrel" Elliott
Bend, Ore.
1984 Westfalia. A poor but proud people.
1971 "Ladybug"-brand utility trailer ca. 1972 from a defunct company in
San Clemente, Calif., now repurposed as The Westrailia.
Sent from my kitchen.
On 01/27/2012 06:42 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Deep Cycle battery capacity load testing. Theory: Deep cycle
> batteries need to be tested differently than the normal tests used
> for starting batteries. The major consideration is that a deep cycle
> battery needs to be able to deliver power for a longer period of time
> whereas a starting battery is called upon to deliver a very large
> amount of power for a short period of time. Deep cycle batteries are
> rated in total Amp/hours over some period of time, usually 5,6, or 20
> hours. This is critical to understand as the effect is not linear.
> Also it is important to note that a longer, lower current draw will
> actually bring the battery to lower state of charge as the cut off
> voltage is approached. There are many variables to battery
> performance and test results but we will want to do is come up with
> some repeatable procedure. Ultimately you will want to try this on a
> new battery after 10-20 cycles to get a baseline. Then at some
> periodic interval you test again to determine the health of the
> battery. The Tools: The basic tools will be to get a 12 volt to 120
> volt inverter. One with metering would be real nice but a basic 400
> watt unit will do the job. The inverter will be used to supply a load
> and the feature we want is that it will shut off when the battery
> reaches 100% discharge (10.5 volts). Next we want an old style
> electric clock. We can set the clock to 12:00 when starting the test
> and when the inverter shuts off we will be able to see how long the
> battery lasted. Next we will need a load. Regular light bulbs can
> provide us with a known load. The watts to be determined by the
> battery capacity we wish to test.
>
> The method: We need to know the battery rated capacity and decide the
> test method we want to use. The 5 hour test provides very good test
> results. Note that a battery is not considered failed if it can
> deliver 80% or more of its rated capacity. As such if the battery is
> still going at 4 hours at a full load we may choose to stop the test
> to avoid needlessly wearing it. So let say we have a battery rated
> 100 A/H for 5 hours, we want a load of 100/5=20 A/h load. 20 A/H X 12
> V is a 240 watt load. So 240 watts of light bulbs will in theory give
> us the load we need. Now we need to keep in mind that the battery
> rating is based on Amps. As the battery voltage goes down current
> needs to increase if we are to maintain the same power. Real load
> banks compensate buy increasing the load as the voltage drop to
> maintain a constant current draw. The inverter may also do that to
> some extent. Add the inverter looses and other variables and we need
> to use a slightly lower load. For our test purpose for this size
> battery lets use2-100 watt bulbs for a 200 watt load. Again, after
> you do this once you will have a base line so just use the same
> equipment for the next test so you get a trend. For the test you want
> to start with the battery fully charged. If inclined take specific
> gravity readings of all the cells. If some cells are low try on
> equalization charge to bring them up. On large motive power
> batteries we sometime do long term constant current charges to get
> the acid out of the plates and if needed we also do acid adjustments
> to get the cells back. Anyway after the battery is fully charged we
> want to let it sit to dissipate that surface charge and be at room
> temperature. So we will connect the inverter, clock, and light bulbs.
> Be sure to have the bulbs in real sockets, lamps, a drop light etc.
> broken glass and glowing energized filaments do not make for a good
> day. With the clock set to 12:00 turn the inverter on with the load.
> Now let’s see how long it keeps the lights on. You may want to take
> voltage readings before starting the test, (open circuit), when the
> load is turned on, and then every hour. This will also give you a lot
> of information.
>
> Dennis
>
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